Lifestyle

Making Ravioli with Lehigh Valley Style

Tuesday, January 31st, 2012

(Left to right) Meghan Decker, Caley Bittner, and editor-in-chief Lisa Gotto of Lehigh Valley Style magazine join Sharon in her kitchen.

Cooking with style is a constant goal of mine but, recently, I got to literally cook with Style.

Lehigh Valley Style magazine Editorial Assistant Meghan Decker e-mailed to ask if she and some colleagues could participate in a SimpleItaly Learn-and-Dine class. We conferred and decided to make two types of ravioli.

A video of the resulting afternoon of flour-filled fun—plus recipes for Cheese Ravioli with Sage Butter and Luganega Sausage Ravioli with Porcini Cream Sauce—is on the magazine’s web site.

Grazie mille, LVS.

You really rocked the ravioli!

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Piadina

Tuesday, October 25th, 2011

 

A piadina filled with prosciutto, cooked greens, and fresh ricotta cheese.

As la pizza is to i napoletani, la piadina is to i romagnoli.

In Romagna, the part of the Emilia-Romagna region on the Adriatic coast east of Bologna, the flat bread piadina is ubiquitous. It’s ancient and like so many other good foods was born of cucina povera. It consists of flour, strutto (lard), and water (sometimes milk). Numerous dialect names attest to its favor: Piada, pie, pjida, pièda, pji, pida.

Genuine piadine are flavored with pure lard which is soft at room temperature. If you can find unhydrogenated lard (I bought some at an Amish butcher) use it. Otherwise, olive oil is a better choice.

Piadina is flat like pizza but with important differences.

Pizza dough is prepared with yeast. Piadina is not although bicarbonate of soda is sometimes added.

Pizza dough contains no fat. Piadina is tenderized with lard and increasingly these days with olive oil.

Pizza is baked in a very hot oven while piadine are grilled on an unglazed terra cotta stone known as una teglia or uno testo. More energy efficient! Once upon a time, the grilling took place over the ashes of wood fires. Now it’s completed on a stovetop. A cast iron pan or griddle works beautifully.

Piadine actually have more in common with Mexican flour tortillas than with pizza. Like other quick breads, they must be eaten warm when they’re most flavorful and pliable. Cut into wedges, they are a welcome addition to an antipasto platter.

A vintage ad for piadine on a wall in Dozza: The best snacks with genuine products.

Piadine also make delectable panini. Thinly sliced prosciutto or other salumi, sautéed lascinato kale or chard, any soft cheese, arugula, whatever you fancy—just lay the fillings on top of the bread and fold.

Piadine are fun for a casual do-it-yourself supper where guests grill and fill their own. The dough can be mixed several hours ahead of time and left to sit, covered in plastic, at room temperature or in the refrigerator (warm to room temp before grilling).

I tried several different recipes from good sources, including a fine one from Chef Paul Bartolotta in Food & Wine. His piadine are 10-inches wide, a bit too broad for my cast iron skillet, so I narrowed the width.

I experimented with cooling and freezing piadine. I found the reheated breads almost better than the freshly grilled ones. Even in such a thin bread, the layers of pastry were more defined. anche di piu

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C-Colzani

Wednesday, October 5th, 2011

Flexibility makes yoga poses so much easier. It also makes travel so much more fun.

If Lisa B. hadn’t bent the rules that day on our way to Malpensa Airport, I might never have experienced C-Colzani Caffè. And that, i mie amici, would have been a major loss to my aspiring Inner Italian lifestyle.

C-Colzani has been named Gambero Rosso’s Bar of the Year for two years running. It is artisanal, sleek, smart, and gustoso. It is the creation of the young, talented brothers Marco and Andrea Colzani.

But I’m jumping ahead in the story. Lisa hadn’t premeditated going rogue but her instincts are sharp. As the representative of the travel firm sponsoring the familiarization trip to the Lake Como area, she was charged with keeping us on schedule. One evening, we dined at  il Griso hotel near Lecco on the eastern branch of the lake. C-Colzani continua

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Cucina Povera

Tuesday, September 27th, 2011

Pomodori, Fagioli, e Cipolline (Roasted Tomatoes, Beans, and Onions) Photograph by Andrea Wyner

As cultural tourists, who among us isn’t dazzled by the Tuscan sun? We see ourselves feasting beneath its rays: Platters laden with antipasti, pasta, bistecca all fiorentina, Sangiovese wine, and sweets . . . la dolce vita.

But Tuscans in their 70s, 80s, and 90s tell a story of a different table.

These old kitchen hands are the witnesses who inform Pamela Sheldon Johns’ latest cookbook Cucina Povera: Tuscan Peasant Cooking (Andrews McMeel). Johns, an American cookbook author who owns Poggio Etrusco, an organic agritourismo near Montepulciano, has written a cultural and culinary history of a by-gone world. Cucina Povera continua

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Sofia Coppola è Sposata

Monday, August 29th, 2011

 

Speak softly, love, but carry a big stick.

As an admirer of Academy-Award nominated director Sofia Coppola, I wish her tanti auguri on her marriage to Phoenix front man Thomas Mars. The fairy tale ceremony was held on Saturday at the Coppola family estate in Bernalda, in the arch of the Italian heel, in the region of Basilicata.

The New York Daily News reports, “Coppola’s famous father, director Francis Ford Coppola walked his 40-year-old daughter–clad in a custom-made lavender Azzadine Alaia gown–down the aisle.”

Good thing art (in the form of Papa Coppola’s original Godfather film) isn’t imitating life (21st Century style) on this nuptial.

Imagine if Don Vito Corleone’s only daughter Connie were finally to marry boyfriend Carlo Rizzi after being with him for six years and bearing two daughters, as the real-life Sofia has done. Forget the over-the-top wedding scene opening the film. More likely, Connie’s Mom, clad all in black, would be weeping, begging Don Vito to quit saying, “Connie’s dead to me now.”

And what about son Michael’s sun-kissed Sicilian nuptials with the luscious Apollonia?

It was a nice diversion from the blood and gore but we all know how badly that ended. All we have left from that union is the saccharine “Speak Softly Love” theme. Composer Nino Rota may be a musical genius but we all know he phoned in that one for the money.

So, Sofia. We applaud your independent spirit.

Perhaps this is sweet payback for Dad casting you in The Godfather III?

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