What’s one way to tell if you’ve done a half-way decent job at mothering?

When your daughter returns from a business trip to Rome with a big chunk of formaggio pecorino stagionato. This cheese is the color of antique parchment studded with salt crystals that look like pin pricks. Truly, it looks a little intimidating. But on the tongue, it’s sweet and sharp and surprisingly mellow.

Emma had fun purchasing the aged sheep’s milk at the famed Volpetti food shop in the Testaccio neighborhood. “The guy was so nice. He let me taste it,” she said. (Did I mention that she’s young and beautiful?)

Although Emma can’t remember where it was produced. I checked the product list on the Volpetti Web site and if forced to guess, I’d say Messina in Sicily.

Looking at the photograph, does anyone have a more informed opinion? In the meantime, I’ll be nibbling.

Ossobucco bonus: Use a tiny spoon to capture the succulent marrow nestled inside the hole in the veal bone.

All happy families are alike (in their tradition of birthday meals). All unhappy families are different in their own way (I guess they don’t have the birthday meal tradition).

At our house, the birthday recipient gets to choose his or her birthday meal. It’s a great deal. From first course to dessert, from soup to nuts, from music to candles, it’s the whole package. And the advantage at our home is that the meal is prepared by Sharon. So it is flawless, fun, and flavorful.

I was in a bit of a quandary on February 7^th, my birthday. I wasn’t sure what I wanted. Sharon and I were out and about that day, and she suggested we go to Wegman’s, the superb, Rochester-based food retailer, to see what “spoke” to me.

I started with dessert…and chose the Wegman’s mini-marble cheesecake. That’s the birthday dessert I always want. Sharon makes the best I ever had, but as empty-nesters I didn’t want  a sweet that would be savored for days, and would last on our hips for months.

Next to the meat department: When we lived in Florence, I lusted after grilled Lombatina, the succulent veal chop served at Trattoria Benvenuto. I didn’t see any in the custom case. Not a surprise—it’s not a common cut in the U.S. Then, a brilliant entree concept…“Wait, how about veal shanks for ossobuco?”

Sharon looked at me, and admitted she had channeled that thought into my birthday-meal brain. “That’s exactly what I had in mind!” she said.

The rest was easy. We added lascinato kale and fixings for a risotto alla Milanese. I served a 2001 Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico. It was a perfect complement to the splendid meal.

The only thing better than ossobuco for your birthday? Savoring leftovers for lunch.

Ossobucco alla Milanese

(adapted from 1,000 Italian Recipes by Michele Sciccolone, Wiley)

Makes 4 servings

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

4 meaty slices veal shank (about 1 1/2-inches-thick)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 small onion, finely chopped

1 small carrot, finely chopped

1 rib celery, finely chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 cup dry white wine

1 cup chopped canned plum tomatoes with juice

1 cup chicken broth

2 anchovy fillets, minced

1 tablespoon minced fat-leaf parsley

2 teaspoons grated lemon zest

Preheat the oven to 300°F. Spread the flour on a piece of waxed paper. Dredge the veal in the flour, shaking off the excess. Season both sides lightly with salt and pepper.

In an ovenproof pot with a tight-fitting lid, melt the butter and oil over medium-high heat. Add the veal.

Cook for about 10 minutes, or until browned on the bottom. Turn and cook for about 5 minutes, or until browned on the bottom. Remove to a plate and set aside.

Add the onion, carrot, celery, and garlic to the pot. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Cook, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes, or until tender.

Add the wine and cook, scraping up any browned bits, for about 5 minutes, or until the wine no longer smells of alcohol. Add the tomatoes, broth, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Bring to a brisk simmer. Return the meat to the pan, pushing gently to submerge in the sauce. Cover the pot and place in the center of the oven.

Bake for 1 1/2 hours. Carefully remove the lid to check the consistency of the sauce. If it is too runny, continue baking, uncovered, for about 30 minutes longer, or until the sauce is thickened. If the sauce looks too thick, add 1/4 to 1/2 cup more broth, cover and bake about 30 minutes longer, or until the veal is fork tender.

Remove the pot from the oven. Place the anchovies in a small bowl. Ladle some of the sauce into the bowl and whisk to dissolve the anchovies. Pour into the pot and stir gently to incorporate.

In a small bowl, combine the parsley and zest. Plate the shanks with the risotto (recipe follows). Spoon on the sauce and sprinkle on the parsley mixture.

Risotto alla Milanese

(from Cooking Up an Italian Life)

Serves 4 to 6 as a side dish

2 1/4      cups chicken broth

1              tablespoon butter, divided

2              teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

1/2         small onion, finely chopped

3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons Arborio or other superfino rice

1/8         teaspoon saffron threads, crumbled

1/8         teaspoon salt

1/4         cup dry white wine

1/2         cup (2 ounces) grated Parmesan cheese

Heat the broth to a boil in a saucepan. Reduce the heat to low.

In a heavy saucepan, melt 1/2 tablespoon butter and oil over medium-low heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes, or until soft. Add the rice, saffron, and salt. Stir to color the rice evenly. Add the wine. Increase the heat to medium-high. Cook for about 4 minutes, or until the wine is absorbed.

Reduce the heat to medium-low. Add 1/2 cup of broth. Start timing the cooking.

Simmer the rice, stirring constantly, until the broth is absorbed. Continue adding broth, 1/2 cup at a time, and stirring frequently. After 18 minutes of cooking, start testing the rice. The rice should be tender but still hold its shape. When it is cooked, remove from the heat. (All of the broth mixture may not be needed.) Add the remaining 1/2 tablespoon butter. Stir. Add the cheese and stir.

What Italian dish will you have for your birthday?

Share your pick by leaving a comment.

(Clockwise from top) Collard greens, broccoli rabe, and curly kale.

“Do you have a rabbit?”

I was so intent on punching in the number codes for my produce items in the self-checkout that, at first, I didn’t realize the woman was speaking to me.

“Do you have a rabbit?” she repeated. “Or a juicer?”

My puzzled expression encouraged her to elaborate. “All these greens, I thought maybe you have a rabbit,” she said gesturing to the bags of broccoli rabe, curly kale and collards on the counter. “You don’t eat them, do you?”

I squelched my urge to laugh and assured her that these greens were incredibly tasty. “I stir sauté them in olive oil and garlic,”  I offered.  “My family loves them.” (I didn’t go so far as to disclose that one of my proudest achievements as a parent is that both my daughters adore these hearty, healthful vegetables.) As I bagged my leafy booty and left the market, she still didn’t look convinced.

I thought of her that evening when we feasted on pungent broccoli rabe, borlotti beans braised with pancetta, and creamy polenta. We are some lucky bunnies!

This rustic dinner of greens, borlotti beans and polenta is typical of central and northeastern Italian country food in the winter. Borlotti rival the Tuscan favorite cannellini as my pick for best Italian bean. The borlotti have tan skin with black-magenta streaks. When cooked the skin turns a warm cocoa brown and the cooking broth and beans create a savory gravy. They’re so satisfying especially with some pancetta in the pot.

My local supermarket doesn’t stock borlotti beans so chances are yours won’t either. I used the superb organic borlotti from www.ranchogordo.com in Napa, CA. Some other online beans sellers are www.purcellmountainfarms.com and www.bobsredmill.com for cranberry beans, a good stand-in for borlotti.

Stir-Sautéed Greens

Makes 4 to 6 servings

Extra-virgin olive oil

1          large clove garlic, minced

1          pound broccoli rabe, kale, chard, or collard greens

Salt and freshly-ground ground black pepper

Wash the greens in plenty of cold water. Remove and discard tough stems. Chop the greens. There’s no need to dry them; the water on the leaves will create steam in the pan to help tenderize them.

Film a large sauté pan or large pot generously with olive oil. Scatter in the garlic and make sure it is filmed with oil. Set over low heat. Cook for about 3 minutes, watching and stirring frequently, or until garlic is softened. Do not brown.

Increase heat to high. Add half the greens to the pan; toss with tongs. Cover for about 1 minute or until the greens start to wilt. Add the remaining greens. Toss and cover for 1 minute. Uncover and cook, tossing, for about 2 minutes or until greens are wilted, brightly colored and glossy. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Vino sangiovese from the province of Romagna.

This recipe for borlotti is inspired by the beans I ate at Poggio Duca, a wonderful agriturismo on the border between Romagna province and the Marche. The large inviting dining room has a bank of windows overlooking the valley below the medieval mountaintop village of San Leo.

Braised Borlotti Beans with Pancetta

Makes 4 to 6 servings

Extra-virgin olive oil

2 ounces thick pancetta or good-quality slab bacon, finely chopped

1 onion, chopped

1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary

1 cup canned crushed tomatoes or tomato puree

1 pound cooked borlotti beans with cooking liquid (see following cooking method)

Salt and black pepper

In a large heavy pot, combine about 1 tablespoon oil with the pancetta. Cook over medium-low heat for about 5 minutes, or until the pancetta fat is rendered and the meaty streaks start to brown. Add the onion. Cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes or until the onion is translucent. Add the rosemary and tomato. Bring to a simmer. Add the beans with their cooking liquid. Stir.

Partially cover the pot and cook at a gentle simmer for about 45 minutes until the beans thicken slightly and the flavors blend. Season to taste with salt and black pepper.

Basic Method for Cooking Dried Beans

Makes 6 to 7 cups

1          pound dried beans, sorted and washed

12        cups good-tasting water (approximately)

1          carrot, cut in 2-inch chunks

2          ribs celery heart, cut in 2-inch chunks

1          small onion, cut in half

1          bay leaf

Several parsley stems

Salt

In a large pot, soak the beans overnight in cold water to cover.

Drain the beans and return them to the pot. Cover with water about 2 inches above the beans. Add the carrot, celery, onion, bay leaf, and parsley. Cover and bring almost to a boil. Remove the cover and reduce the heat so the water liquid simmers. Skim any foam and discard.

Partially cover the pot. Adjust the heat so the water liquid simmers but does not boil. Cook for 1 hour. Test a bean for doneness. Add slightly more water if needed to keep beans covered. Stir gently. Cook for 1 to 2 more hours, adding more liquid as needed, or until beans are tender but hold their shape. Taste. Season to taste with salt.

Remove from the heat to cool.  Remove and discard the carrot, celery, onion, bay leaf, and parsley stems. Place the beans in a covered container and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks before using in a recipe. The beans may also be frozen if you plan to use them in a recipe like soup where firm texture is not crucial.

Creamy Polenta

Makes 4 to 6 servings

1          cup cornmeal, preferably stone-ground

4          cups chicken broth, water, or milk

1/4       teaspoon salt

Grated Pecorino Romano cheese

Whisk the cornmeal, milk, and salt in a saucepan. Cook, whisking constantly, over medium-high heat, for about 5 minutes, or until thickened. Reduce the heat to low. Simmer, stirring occasionally, for about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat.

Do you eat Italian rabbit food, too? How do you prepare your greens? What do you serve with them?

Edible garnets bursting with sweet tart juice and a crunchy center.  These are pomegranate arils, the juice-filled sacs that encase the seeds of this delightful winter produce.

Pomegranates are an ancient fruit that were known by the Romans. Widely cultivated in the Mediterranean, the Italian name for them is melagrana.

I’m always excited when pomegranates show up in the market but the season is relatively short. Fresh pomegranates from California are available September through January. The Wonderful or Red Wonderful is the most common variety grown in this country.

For the best winter salad imaginable, in a bowl whisk two to three parts extra-virgin olive oil with one part lemon juice or red wine vinegar and a pinch of salt. Add mixed greens, cut-up clementine sections and a generous handful of pomegranate arils. Toss and serve garnished with coarsely ground black pepper.

To learn how to select and store pomegranates, as well as extract the arils without giving yourself a juice bath (word of warning: don’t wear white), visit the Pomegranate Council. They  offer recipes and of useful information such as the tip that pomegranate arils freeze just fine. I’m going to try that to extend the season for these edible garnets.

Grazie to our friend Jessica Young, talented NYC private chef for beating us to the newly launched Eataly, at 200 Fifth Ave,  in Manhattan. You can catch her tour on her blog Vittle Me This.

A co-production of the Italian Eataly stores, affiliated with Slow Food, and the Mario Batali organization, the emporium houses a grocery with artisanal ingredients, fresh and cured meats, and fresh foods as well as several restaurants.

Jessica, we loved your description of Romanesco as cauliflower that had sex with a Christmas tree!

Ci vediamo all’ Eataly!