Ragú is the Italian term for long-simmered, mellow meat sauce that dresses pasta or polenta. It varies from region to region, sometimes prepared with large chunks of meat, sometimes with ground, or more properly, finely minced meat.

I’ve sampled ragú of duck, rabbit, mixed meats, and sausages and have never encountered one that failed to satisfy my appetite. Arguably the most renowned of Italian meat sauces is ragú alla bolognese from the storied food city of Bologna. It is classically prepared with a combination of chopped beef, veal, or pork, and, in the good old days, was finished with heavy cream. Milk is now more often used.

Finely chopping onion, celery, and carrot into a mxiture called a battuto is the first step in making a ragu.

Ragú alla bolognese is not as tomatoey as the meat sauces of the south that influenced Italian American sauces. The tomato acidity in a bolognese is balanced by the sweetness of the sautéed aromatic vegetables—the soffrito, or flavor base.

A properly cooked soffrito is one of the secrets to a divine ragu.

It’s essential to cook the soffrito slowly to lightly caramelize the vegetables without browning them. I like to remove the soffrito from the pot so the meats can brown without the steam created by the veggies.

ragu alla bolognese recipe

In northern Italy’s sub-Alpine areas, particularly Piedmont and Lombardy, Bollito Misto (mixed boil) is the culinary cure for chilly damp winters. Not so much an exact recipe as it is a ritual, the dish can include beef, veal, cotechino sausage, chicken or capon and aromatic vegetables. Tougher cuts of meat are simmered slowly in water—not actually boiled at all—for hours until they are fork tender and the resulting broth is liquid heaven. I actually crave hot broth in the cold months. I believe my body is saying, “I need to be hydrated. I need some savory steam to open my dry air passages.”

In Italy, bollito misto is typically prepared for a crowd because it takes so many different ingredients to achieve the desired flavor complexity. The broth is often ladled into bowls as a first course, sometimes embellished with tortellini and Parmesan cheese. The meats are then served separately as a secondo, or second plate, garnished with mostarda di frutta, salsa rosa, or salsa verde.

In my kitchen, I opt for a simpler version made with beef and chicken. I also cook carrots, onion, celery, and potatoes in the broth to serve with the meats. This makes a wonderful one-dish meal with plenty of leftovers for lunches.

The salsa verde may be prepared several days in advance and refrigerated in a tightly closed container. Thanks to Michele Scicolone in her cookbook 1,000 Italian Recipes for the tip on adding fresh bread crumbs to bind the salsa verde.

Bollito Misto Semplice

Makes about 8 servings

10 cups filtered water

6 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth

1 cup drained canned plum tomatoes

4 bay leaves

2 cloves garlic, peeled

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

2 1/2 to 3 pounds beef top round or chuck

1 broiler-fryer chicken (3 1/2 to 4 pounds), quartered

4 carrots, cut into 3-inch lengths

4 ribs celery, cut into 3-inch lengths

1 1/2 pound red potatoes, quartered if large

1 large onion, cut into wedges

Salt and pepper

Minced parsley (optional)

Salsa verde (recipe follows)

Mostarda di frutta

In a 10 to 12-quart pot, bring the water, broth, tomatoes, bay leaves, thyme and garlic to a boil. Add the beef. Reduce the heat so the mixture simmers. Cover partially and simmer for 2 hours.

Add the carrots, celery, and onion to the pot. Cover partially and simmer for 1 hour. Add the chicken and press to submerge until the broth. Simmer, partially covered, for about 1 1/2 hours or until the chicken is very tender. Season to taste with salt and pepper. If desired, serve a bowl of the broth for a first course. Remove and discard the bay leaves.

Remove the beef and chicken to a cutting board that has a well to catch the broth. Break into small pieces. The meat will be very tender. Transfer to plates. Surround with vegetables. Garnish with parsley if desired. Ladle on just a bit of the broth to moisten. Serve with salsa verde or mostarda di frutta on the side.

Salsa Verde

Makes 1 cup

2 cups packed parsley leaves

1/2 cup packed soft Italian bread crumbs without crust

1/4 cup drained capers in brine or soaked and rinsed salted capers

1 salted or canned-in-olive oil anchovy, filleted (note)

2 small cloves garlic

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon wine vinegar

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Salt

In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade, combine the parsley, bread crumbs, capers, anchovies, garlic, mustard and vinegar. Process until finely chopped. With the machine running, drizzle in the oil through the feed tube until smooth. Season with salt to taste. Refrigerate in a covered container.

Note

For salted anchovy, rinse well under cold running water. Place in a small dish and cover with milk. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 4 hours. Remove from the milk, rinse and pat dry before using.

For anchovy in oil, pat dry before using.

Cheese Ravioli with Sage Butter

When Natalie, the niece of a yoga buddy of mine, invited me to make ravioli at her Foundations of Education Class at Lehigh Carbon Community College (LCCC), I thought she must be one very confused student. “How would preparing stuffed fresh pasta help to edify future teachers?” I asked myself.

“We want the students to experience learning and teaching through different modalities,” explained Mary Braccili, LCCC Assistant Professor of Teacher Education, when I called her to inquire about the proposed session. “The five senses — seeing, hearing, touching, smelling, and tasting — can all be used in the classroom to enhance learning. And because the unit’s sub-theme this semester is Italy, Mary added, Natalie thought of asking you to make an Italian dish with our students.

(Natalie, I retract my initial doubts — you go to the head of the class!)

Professor Mary Braccilli, "agent" Natalie, and Sharon at the LCCC ravioli session.

And so it was, earlier this week, that my number one sous chef Walter and I had big big fun with a hands-on session in preparing Cheese Ravioli with Sage Butter at the LCCC Fowler Center kitchen.

Sharon gives an overview of stuffed fresh Italian pastas -- such as tortellini, cappelletti, and ravioli -- to LCCC education students.

The students rotated in groups of four in rolling the prepared egg-flour dough on a hand-cranked pasta machine into gossamer 4-inch wide strips. Then they dolloped on the filling mixture of ricotta, Parmigiano Reggiano, Gruyere, and parsley. Quickly they folded the dough strip over, tamped out the air between the dollops, and cut and sealed the ravioli with serrated wheels.

(Left to right) LCCC education students Michele and Eddie fill and cut ravioli while Sharon shows another student (also named Eddie) how to prepare the dough for rolling.

As I supervised, the young cooks experienced how the dough should look and feel — as smooth as modeling compound but not sticky. As the end of class neared, we boiled the ravioli just for a few minutes, then drained and tossed them in sizzling butter and fresh sage leaves. The nutty herbal aroma evoked an idyllic autumn day. At last, we tasted the tender morsels. A-plus to the ravioli makers at LCCC!

Cheese Ravioli with Sage Butter recipe

I caught the tail-end of a Ruth Reichl interview on NPR the other day. Ruth, the editor-in-chief of Gourmet magazine, is getting a ton of air time in the wake of that iconic publication’s demise and her new cookbook.

She was asked about her favorite, go-to, family, comfort food, a meal she enjoys making and eating at home. She answered quickly, decisively: “Spaghetti carbonara.” Then she rattled off her recipe, threw in some technique details, and convinced me that she was practicing what she was preaching.

I’ve met people whose love for Italian food could be traced to their first encounter with an authentic carbonara. But I haven’t met many whose career was shaped by its defining ingredient and flavor – pancetta – cured pork belly.

Chef Warren Stephens in his "office."

Warren Stephens is chef and a business partner with Butcher and Calcasieu, two enterprises of the wildly successful Link Restaurant Group of New Orleans.  He had his pancetta moment in Tuscany. Stephens, born and raised in North Carolina, always felt drawn to food. But when he visited a friend living in Tuscany, and tasted his first carbonara, he became fascinated by the alluring flavor of pancetta. “I bought hunks of it, and experimented with cutting, cooking, and tasting it. That led to me to exploring more about pork products, and eventually returning to the U.S. to make and sell my own cured meats.”

More about pancetta

Torta di pesche in a tender butter cookie crust.

I’m living in a kind of peach frenzy.

Peaches and ricotta for breakfast. Baked peaches blanketed with pastry cream. Peach sorbetto.  Peach tart in a sweet cookie crust.

Pondering how long my supplies will last, I just spoke on the phone to the friendly clerk at Bechtold’s Orchard in Bucks County, PA. She said peaches will be available for about one more week. O-N-E week?  Sadly, the days of peaches dwindle down to a precious few.

Like a squirrel frantically stashing nuts for the bleak days to come, I’m stockpiling peaches in my freezer. It’s easy enough to do. Submerge the ripe but firm peaches in a pot of boiling water for 30 to 60 seconds. Transfer them with a slotted spoon to a big bowl of ice water.

A Bechtold's Orchard peach emerging from a refresing ice water bath.

Start peeling with a sharp paring knife at the stem end and the skin slips off as easily as a satin robe gliding off the shoulder of a 1930s glamour queen. Halve or quarter the peaches and lay them on a tray lined with plastic wrap. Place in the freezer for a day and then pack the frozen peaches into a resealable plastic freezer bag or plastic freezer container.

Peeled peaches ready to be flash frozen.

And, while you still have the chance, you can bake a homey Italian peach tart with the following recipe. It’s sweetened with fruit preserves to intensify the flavor of the fresh fruit filling. Sometimes I replace half the preserves with ginger-peach chutney from Tait Farm Foods in Centre Hall, PA. It makes a sweet, slightly hot filling that’s bliss.

Read the recipe for torta di pesche