I crave panzanella in August. This home-spun jumble of stale bread, succulent tomatoes, aromatic basil, olive oil, wine vinegar, cucumber and onion is restorative. Each refreshing bite perks me up, makes me feel more  like a budding flower and less like a scorched weed.

I first tasted panzanella in the countryside outside of Florence. Friends told me that the dish evolved as thrifty country cooks combined stale bread with juicy seasonal produce to create a quick, inexpensive salad.

These days, the challenge to putting together a good panzanella is in obtaining ingredients that will give the dish a genuine flavor and the proper texture. The keys are the bread, the tomatoes, and the olive oil.

Bread

Panzanella requires a rustic whole-grain loaf–with no fat or sweeteners–that won’t dissolve into goo when moistened. (LaBrea Bakery whole grain loaf is one commercially-produced example. To find a store near you, go to La Brea Bakery.) Many so-called Italian breads are made from white flour and dough enhancers and are just too fluffy to hold their crumb. If you’re a baker, you can prepare the Italian Wheat Berry Bread for the panzanella. If you think your bread won’t hold up to the water bath, I recommend skipping that process. Instead, simple toast the bread lightly and then cut it into cubes before tossing with the vegetables and dressing.

Tomatoes

Choose very ripe fruit that’s grown in your area. I like heirloom varieties which are like tomato-juice machines.

Olive oil
The fruity taste of extra-virgin oil is essential. When it’s mixed with the vegetables and basil, it produces a seasonal elixir.

While I prefer the classic simplicity of the following recipe, you can add protein or other vegetables to a panzanella to make it a one-dish meal. Add-ins include lettuce, radishes, celery, fennel, prosciutto, canned tuna, Parmigiano Reggiano, Gruyère, capers, artichoke hearts, hard-cooked eggs and roasted red peppers.

Panzanella (Tuscan Bread and Tomato Salad)

Makes 6 to 8 servings

1 loaf (about 1 pound) rustic Italian Wheat Berry Bread, cut into 1/2-inch cubes, dried

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons red or white wine vinegar

Salt and pepper

1 1/2 pounds ripe locally-grown tomatoes, cut into chunks

1 medium cucumber, peeled, quartered lengthwise, sliced

1/2 medium red onion (about 4 ounces), halved and thinly sliced

1/2 cup slivered fresh basil

Place the bread in a large bowl. Cover with cold water. Allow to soak for 30 to 60 seconds until bread is saturated. Test by squashing a piece between thumb and finger. Drain. Scoop the bread in cupped handfuls, squeezing out excess water but taking care not to pulverize the bread. Transfer to a platter. Continue until all the bread is squeezed.

In a large bowl, whisk the oil, vinegar, and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Add the tomatoes, cucumber, onion, and basil. Toss. Add the bread and toss. Season to taste with pepper and more salt, if needed.

What’s your go-to Italian summer dish? Tell us about it.

Sure, the happy yellow blooms look pretty now.

Oh, and look, some of the flowers have baby zucchini growing out of them. How cute!

Ah, but in a a span of days, those diminutive veggies will explode to gargantuan proportions.

Act now! Pick your zucchini when they are no more than 1-inch wide. You’ll thank me later.

To prepare a gratinata, slice the zucchini very thin on the finest setting of a mandoline or with the slicing blade of a food processor.

This easy dish is always a hit because the cheese and olive oil not only add terrific flavor to the mild squash, they help to crisp up the texture. It’s equally delicious served warm or at room temperature.

Gratinata di Zucchini

Extra-virgin olive oil

3/4       cup grated Parmesan cheese

1/2       cup plain dry breadcrumbs

2          pounds small zucchini (1-inch diameter) very thinly sliced

Salt

1/4       cup coarsely chopped pine nuts or almonds

Preheat a grill to 375°F. On a sheet of waxed paper, combine the breadcrumbs and Parmesan.

Oil the bottom of a 13 x 10 x 1-inch baking sheet with sides. Coat with one-third of the Parmesan mixture. Place one third of the zucchini slices in an even layer in the pan. Season lightly with salt. Repeat layering twice. Drizzle lightly with oil. Sprinkle evenly with the pine nuts.

Bake in the covered grill over indirect heat for about 40 minutes or until browned and sizzling. Remove from the grill to cool for at least 15 minutes before serving. Serve warm or at room temperature.

What’s your favorite way to cope with zucchini bounty? Leave a comment below.

I always associate Rice Salad with summer in Rome. Even when it’s sweltering and your appetite is wilted, this refreshing dish will revive it.

Please look at this recipe as only a guideline. Rice salad is the type of preparation, like pasta, that is totally open to improvisation.  Vary it throughout the season with whatever vegetables are ripe. For instance, use chopped tomatoes instead of roasted bell pepper. And, if you have leftover cooked rice on hand, the dish takes only minutes to create.

You can serve it as is for a main-dish for a luncheon. Or, toss in 1 to 2 cups of drained tuna fish, cooked shrimp, or sliced cooked Italian sausage, for a more substantial salad.

As a side with dinner, serve with grilled meats, poultry, seafood, or vegetables.

Summer Rice Salad

Serves 8 to 10

2          cups medium or long-grain rice

2          cans (14 1/2 ounces each) reduced-sodium chicken or vegetable broth

1 1/2    teaspoons salt

1          medium-large sweet or red onion, chopped

5          tablespoons red or white wine vinegar

1/3       cup extra-virgin olive oil

3          ribs of celery hearts, chopped

1 1/2    cups chopped sweet pea pods or frozen baby peas, rinsed

1/2       cup shredded Provolone, Swiss Gruyère, Parmesan, Tuscan Pecorino, or Spanish         Manchego cheese

1          roasted red or yellow bell pepper, chopped

3          tablespoons drained capers or slivered green or black olives

Ground black pepper

In a large pot, combine the rice, broth, 1/2 cup water, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat so medium-low so rice simmers. Cook for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside, covered, for 5 minutes.

Coat a large tray with no-stick spray. With a fork spread the rice on a large tray. Stir occasionally to speed cooling.

In a small bowl, combine the onion, 2 tablespoons vinegar, and enough cold water to cover. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate.

In a large bowl, whisk 1/3 cup oil, 3 tablespoons vinegar, and 1 teaspoon salt. Add the celery, peas, cheese, pepper, capers or olives, and rice. Toss to mix. Cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour to chill.

To serve, drain and rinse the onions. Add to the salad. Season to taste with black pepper. Toss the salad. Drizzle with a bit more olive oil and vinegar if needed.

Serve right away or cover and refrigerate for several hours. Allow to sit at room temperature for 15 minutes before serving.

Torta di fragole, strawberry tart with rum pastry cream, is a celebration of spring in Italy.

When fragoline, the tiny woods strawberries, appear in markets and trattorie in late spring, it is truly cause for celebration. During their brief reign, there is no other dessert worth contemplating. Eaten simply out of hand or in a cookie crusted cream tart, now is the time to revel in this sweet seasonal gift.

Torta di Fragole (Strawberry Tart)

Makes 10 servings

Sweet Pastry Dough (recipe follows)

1/3       cup sugar

2          tablespoons all-purpose flour

1            egg plus 2 egg yolks

1          cup half-and-half or whole milk

2          tablespoons dark rum, divided

1          tablespoon butter

1          quart (1 1/2 pounds) medium or small strawberries, halved if desired

1/2       cup all-fruit apricot preserves

Coat a 12-inch round baking or pizza pan with no-stick spray. Prepare the dough. Pat into the bottom and 1 3/4 inches up the side of the pan. Prick all over with a fork. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Bake for about 30 minutes, pricking any big air bubbles with a fork, or until the entire surface is lightly browned. Remove to a rack. Store, covered with waxed paper, in a dry place for up to 24 hours.

Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, whisk the sugar and flour. In a measuring cup, beat the egg, egg yolks, and half-and-half or milk. Add to the pan; whisk until smooth.

Cook, whisking constantly, over medium heat for 4 to 5 minutes, or until the mixture starts to bubble. Cook, whisking vigorously to prevent lumping, for 1 minute. Remove from the heat. Continue whisking until mixture cools slightly. Whisk in 1 tablespoon rum and the butter. Pour into a bowl. Set aside to cool slightly. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or as long as 1 day.

Place the preserves in a glass measuring cup. Cover and microwave for 60 to 70 seconds, or until bubbling. Press through a fine sieve. Discard the solids. Stir in the remaining 1 tablespoon rum.

Up to 2 hours before serving, spread the pastry cream evenly over the crust. Top with strawberries decorative pattern. Brush the top evenly with the apricot glaze. Refrigerate, uncovered, for up to 2 hours.

Sweet Pastry Dough

1 1/4    cups all-purpose flour

1/4       cup cornstarch

1/3       cup sugar

2          teaspoons grated lemon zest

Pinch of salt

1 1/4    sticks (10 tablespoons) cold unsalted butter, cut in small pieces

2          egg yolks, beaten with 1 tablespoon water

To prepare by hand: In a mixing bowl, combine the flour, cornstarch, sugar, lemon zest, and salt with a fork, pastry blender, or hands. Add the butter. Cut or break it up into fine bits, mixing well with the dry ingredients. Make a well in the center. Add the egg yolk mixture. Toss to mix. The mixture will look crumbly. Turn the mixture out onto a work surface. With hands and a dough scraper, work the mixture into a smooth disk.

To prepare in a food processor: In the bowl of a food processor, combine the flour, cornstarch, sugar, lemon zest, and salt. Process to mix. Add the butter. Pulse 12 to 15 times to incorporate. With the machine running, drizzle in the egg yolk mixture. Turn off the machine. Pulse 6 times. The mixture will look crumbly. Turn the mixture out onto a work surface. With hands and a dough scraper, work the mixture into a smooth disk. Refrigerate for 30 minutes, if desired, so dough is easier to handle.

Every coastal region of Italy has a seafood stew. Tuscany— or more specifically the port town of Livorno—has cacciucco (ka-CHOO-ko). While the word is fun to pronounce, the dish is even more pleasurable to eat.

I yearn for cacciucco in the spring. It was in primavera that I first tasted cacciucco at Trattoria Benvenuto in Florence and I haven’t been the same since.

Some say the dish must have at least five types of seafood to correspond to the five Cs in the word. The more fish and shellfish, the better the flavor. And select good quality red wine and artisanal quality bread with good texture to soak up the amazing broth.

Choose the freshest fish available. Use one type or as many as three or four, to comprise 2 pounds. Sea bass, monkfish, cod, halibut, swordfish, shark, tilapia, turbot, catfish, or red snapper are all good choices.

As for the shellfish, in this recipe, I’m using littleneck clams and shrimp but baby calamari, octopus, mussels, or scallops may be substituted.

Cacciucco

Serves 6 to 8

3/4       cup olive oil
1          large red onion, coarsely chopped
4          large cloves garlic, minced
1 1/2    teaspoons dried crushed red-pepper flakes
1           cup dry red wine
1        can (28 ounces) crushed plum tomatoes
1/2       cup minced fresh flat-leaf parsley, divided
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
24       littleneck clams
24                medium or large unpeeled shrimp
2 to 2 1/2         pounds mild white-fleshed fish fillets, cut in 2-inch chunks
3          cups cold water
6 to 8 thick slices Rustic Bread, toasted

Heat the oil in a 6-quart Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, and pepper flakes. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes or until soft. Add the wine. Increase the heat to medium-high. Cook at a brisk simmer for 5 minutes or until the wine no longer smells of alcohol. Add the tomatoes, all but 2 tablespoons of the parsley, and salt. Bring to a boil then reduce the heat until sauce simmers gently. Cover and cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, for the flavors to blend.

Add the clams and shrimp; stir. Add the fish and stir gently. Increase the heat to high. Cook for 2 minutes or until liquid starts to bubble. Add the water. Cover and reduce the heat so the mixture simmers but does not boil. Cook for 10 minutes or until the clams open and the other seafood is opaque in the center. Discard any clams that will not open. Spoon over bread set in pasta plates or large shallow bowls. Sprinkle with the remaining parsley.

What Italian seafood stews have you savored and where? Tell us!