(Left to right) Meghan Decker, Caley Bittner, and editor-in-chief Lisa Gotto of Lehigh Valley Style magazine join Sharon in her kitchen.

Cooking with style is a constant goal of mine but, recently, I got to literally cook with Style.

Lehigh Valley Style magazine Editorial Assistant Meghan Decker e-mailed to ask if she and some colleagues could participate in a SimpleItaly Learn-and-Dine class. We conferred and decided to make two types of ravioli.

A video of the resulting afternoon of flour-filled fun—plus recipes for Cheese Ravioli with Sage Butter and Luganega Sausage Ravioli with Porcini Cream Sauce—is on the magazine’s web site.

Grazie mille, LVS.

You really rocked the ravioli!

I shake my head when I see Italian polenta on a menu or magazine article presented as some exotic gourmet dish. Where I came from (that would be the wilds of central Pennsylvania) cornmeal boiled in water is cornmeal mush. Has been for a long time. American writer Joel Barlow wrote a mock-epic poem about this humble daily staple. As a New Englander, he knew the porridge as hasty pudding.

Thee the soft nations round the warm Levant
Palanta call, the French of course Polante;
E’en in thy native regions how I blush
To hear the Pennsylvanians call thee Mush!
On Hudson’s banks, while men of Belgic spawn
Insult and eat thee by the name suppawn.
All spurious appellations; void of truth:
I’ve better known thee from my earliest youth,
Thy name is Hasty-Pudding!

The Hasty-Pudding, Joel Barlow, 1793

Italy didn’t have corn, of course, until Columbus brought it back from the Americas. While the habit of eating fresh corn never really caught on among Italians, cooking the ground dried kernels did. Generations of Italian peasants survived on polenta. I once interviewed an American woman whose father had grown up in the Veneto. His family ate polenta three times a day. On good days, a few pieces of salami or cheese might accompany the porridge.

More about polenta

Explore Italian cooking beyond pasta and pizza. Polenta, beans, potatoes, and rice dishes are so satisfying--and gluten-free.

Calling all Inner Italians in southeastern PA and central NJ!

I’m looking forward to teaching a Saturday evening class (January 21, 2012) “Savoring Italian Tastes” at the charming Landhaven Bed and Breakfast owned by Donna and Ed Land. Located in the village of Huff’s Church (Barto, PA), it’s an easy destination for anyone from the Lehigh Valley, the Philadelphia area, or west central NJ.

My class is part of a Food Lovers’ Weekend showcasing gluten-free cooking. On Saturday evening, I’ll show how to prepare delectable Italian dishes that just happen to be gluten free: Risotto with Shrimp and Peas; Cheesey Polenta all’Arrabiata; Zucchini Crust Tomato Basil Tart; Chicken and Red Potatoes alla Pizzaiola. You can sign up for my class only or enjoy a weekend package with two nights lodging with Donna’s incredible breakfast, 3 cooking classes, tastings, and field trips.

Call or e-mail Donna to register:

610.845.3257

donna@landhavenbandb.com

A piadina filled with prosciutto, cooked greens, and fresh ricotta cheese.

As la pizza is to i napoletani, la piadina is to i romagnoli.

In Romagna, the part of the Emilia-Romagna region on the Adriatic coast east of Bologna, the flat bread piadina is ubiquitous. It’s ancient and like so many other good foods was born of cucina povera. It consists of flour, strutto (lard), and water (sometimes milk). Numerous dialect names attest to its favor: Piada, pie, pjida, pièda, pji, pida.

Genuine piadine are flavored with pure lard which is soft at room temperature. If you can find unhydrogenated lard (I bought some at an Amish butcher) use it. Otherwise, olive oil is a better choice.

Piadina is flat like pizza but with important differences.

Pizza dough is prepared with yeast. Piadina is not although bicarbonate of soda is sometimes added.

Pizza dough contains no fat. Piadina is tenderized with lard and increasingly these days with olive oil.

Pizza is baked in a very hot oven while piadine are grilled on an unglazed terra cotta stone known as una teglia or uno testo. More energy efficient! Once upon a time, the grilling took place over the ashes of wood fires. Now it’s completed on a stovetop. A cast iron pan or griddle works beautifully.

Piadine actually have more in common with Mexican flour tortillas than with pizza. Like other quick breads, they must be eaten warm when they’re most flavorful and pliable. Cut into wedges, they are a welcome addition to an antipasto platter.

A vintage ad for piadine on a wall in Dozza: The best snacks with genuine products.

Piadine also make delectable panini. Thinly sliced prosciutto or other salumi, sautéed lascinato kale or chard, any soft cheese, arugula, whatever you fancy—just lay the fillings on top of the bread and fold.

Piadine are fun for a casual do-it-yourself supper where guests grill and fill their own. The dough can be mixed several hours ahead of time and left to sit, covered in plastic, at room temperature or in the refrigerator (warm to room temp before grilling).

I tried several different recipes from good sources, including a fine one from Chef Paul Bartolotta in Food & Wine. His piadine are 10-inches wide, a bit too broad for my cast iron skillet, so I narrowed the width.

I experimented with cooling and freezing piadine. I found the reheated breads almost better than the freshly grilled ones. Even in such a thin bread, the layers of pastry were more defined. anche di piu

Pomodori, Fagioli, e Cipolline (Roasted Tomatoes, Beans, and Onions) Photograph by Andrea Wyner

As cultural tourists, who among us isn’t dazzled by the Tuscan sun? We see ourselves feasting beneath its rays: Platters laden with antipasti, pasta, bistecca all fiorentina, Sangiovese wine, and sweets . . . la dolce vita.

But Tuscans in their 70s, 80s, and 90s tell a story of a different table.

These old kitchen hands are the witnesses who inform Pamela Sheldon Johns’ latest cookbook Cucina Povera: Tuscan Peasant Cooking (Andrews McMeel). Johns, an American cookbook author who owns Poggio Etrusco, an organic agritourismo near Montepulciano, has written a cultural and culinary history of a by-gone world. Cucina Povera continua