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The Hill Towns of Molise

Posted October 23, 2019 by Sharon 1 Comment

Actor Robert De Niro’s great-grandparents emigrated from the Molisan hill town of Ferrazzano.

Even a casual observer of mass Italian tourism reads and hears the commentary.

Tuscany is overrun with outsiders.

Venice is sinking under hordes of cruise line passengers.

Rome is deluged with foreigners.

The Cinque Terre is so crowded that’s it has lost its once-remote allure.

Capri is a tourist trap.

These magnificent places attract multitudes who come to experience the magnificent art, history, cuisines, cultures, and natural beauty.

While it’s the job of the government, tourism industry, and local communities to sort out the long-term future of mass tourism in Italy, it’s my good fortune to offer a plan for right now.

Simply get off the tourism conveyor belt. Each time Walter and I travel to Italy, we choose to explore places that are new to us. Like the region of Molise. We wander, dine, learn, and laugh surrounded by Italians instead of English, German, or Chinese-language speakers.

And isn’t that the reason we all want to experience Italy?

Oratino, Molise

During our recent sojourn in the city of Campobasso, our B&B host Luciano Viola, urged us to drive up to Oratino for lunch at Ristorante Olmicello. He seemed so intent on the prospect that we began to wonder if he was a shareholder in the business. Turns out, Luciano was just the best at promoting some of his area’s finest.

As dramatic spring clouds scuttled across a brilliant blue sky, we made the 15-minute drive northwest of Campobasso to Oratino. In the small park and overlook, we soaked in a verdant vista.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Culture, Driving in Italy, Food, Italy restaurants, Lifestyle, Molise, Travel Tagged With: discover new places in Italy, Italian hill towns, italian travel, Molise, off-the-beaten-path Italy

Fior di Latte Cheese

Posted October 2, 2019 by Sharon Leave a Comment

During our stay in Campobasso, the capital of Molise, our B&B host Luciano Viola treated us to some local food specialties, including a fresh cheese ball that resembled mozzarella di bufala but was called fior di latte (flower of milk). It tasted sweet and pure — like gently solidified fresh milk.

We were intrigued, so Luciano offered to take us to the cheese producer the following morning.

Walter (right) with our host Luciano Viola of Bed & Breakfast Luciano and Son in Campobasso.

It’s a good thing Luciano guided us. Although the shop was close to the B&B, it was located in a courtyard with no business signage whatsoever. Guess if you don’t know where Zio Pasquale cheese shop is located, you’re out of luck.

Luciano introduced us to owner Antonio Tromba who has worked in dairy and cheese production since the age of 10. At the age of 81, he had arisen that morning at 5 a.m.

One half of the operation was devoted to production space; the other half to retail.

As Tromba and his two assistants worked the cheese vats, he explained fior di latte.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Artisans, Culture, Food, Italy Artisans, Miscellany, Molise, Travel Tagged With: Campobasso, fior di latte cheese, Italy cheese, Italy travel, mozzarella di bufala, transumanza

Dining with the Duchess

Posted June 14, 2019 by Sharon Leave a Comment

 

 

Monday lunch might be a ho-um affair in most places but not in Palermo, Sicily, when you’re dining with Nicoletta Polo, Duchess of Palma, in the formal dining room of her 18th Century Palazzo by the sea.

Palazzo Lanza Tomasi Luncheon Menu

  Aubergine Rolls
Casarecce with Zucchini, Basil and Toasted Pine Nuts
Chicken in Caper and Anchovy Sauce, Pantelleria Style
Roasted Potatoes with Fresh Garden Herbs
Strawberry and Orange Pudding

Regaleali Biano 2018
Regaleali Nero d’Avola 2017
Vecchio Florio Marsala Secco Superiore 2013

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Books, Cooking Classes, Culture, Film, Food, Markets, Mediterranean diet, Miscellany, Palermo, Sicily Tagged With: Duchess Nicoletta Polo, Giuseppe di Lampedusa, Il Gattopardo, Italian cooking classes, Italian palazzo, Palermo, Sicily, The Leopard

Milis in Sardinia

Posted May 3, 2019 by Sharon Leave a Comment

By Walter Sanders

Sardinia tour guide Paola Loi connected us with the mayor of Milis Sergio Vacca.

In 2018, when Sharon was studying Italian in Bergamo, and I caught up with her in Cremona, we met up with old pals James Martin and Martha Bakerjian. 

These renowned Italy bloggers split their time between northern California and a small town in the wild and wooly Lunigiana section of Tuscany near Massa Carrarra.


The pair met in the mid-1980s when they both worked on an archeological dig in Sardinia. They share an avid interest in Italy and blog at Martha’s Italy, Wandering Sardinia, and Wandering Italy

Over lunch we decided to meet again in 2019 to explore Sardinia together. In April, 2019 we boarded a Corsica Ferries boat in Livorno for an overnight crossing to Porto Aranci in Sardinia. [Read more…]

Filed Under: Archeology, Culture, Food, Guides, History, Mediterranean diet, Miscellany, Sardinia, Travel Tagged With: Grazia Deledda, Italian tour guides, Italy travel, Mediterranean islands, nuraghi, Romanesque, Sardegna, Sardinia

Best Bakery in Lucca

Posted April 14, 2019 by Sharon Leave a Comment

By Sharon Sanders

Panificio Giusti.

Just typing those words and I salivate. Giusti is a fine bakery in the center of Lucca on Via S. Lucia.

Forno a Vapore Amedeo Giusti (steam oven bakery Amedeo Giusti) creates a variety of breads and pastries using stone-ground organic DOP (protected place of origin) flour, heirloom grains, extra-virgin olive oil and other premium ingredients.

The budino di riso (lemon-kissed rice pudding in a cookie crust; above left) was paradise.

A mini crostata filled with stracchino cheese was a savory sensation.

A glazed walnut-fig brioche pastry (right) tasted like Christmas. Walter and I slivered it into disappearing.

The most impressive baked good was the focaccia, both for the quality of the product and the volume of it that left the shop on our two visits.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Bakery, Food, Lucca, Travel, Tuscan cooking, Tuscany Tagged With: artisinal Italian ingredients, focaccia, heirloom grains, Italian bakery, italian bread, Lucca, panificio

Genoa Eats

Posted April 8, 2019 by Sharon Leave a Comment

By Sharon Sanders

Walter recounted our Day in Genoa from a cultural perspective. Now for the essential part — the food.

As we strolled and soaked up information with our superb guide Filippo Zamparelli [fzampare@fastwebnet.it], we also stopped here and there for sustenance. Walking through the caruggi, narrow medieval streets and alleys, temptations assaulted us.

The seafood glistened at this stand in a piccola piazza in the medieval quarter.
Roast turkey and cima, a veal breast stuffed with cheese, vegetables, offal, and pine nuts.

We stopped for a torta stuffed with artichokes, warm from the oven. Heaven. Tortas are flat two-crusted pies stuffed with varied vegetables and cheeses.

At another shop, we gawked at the array of baccalá (salted cod) and stoccafisso. It may seem curious that preserved cod from north Atlantic waters are still so popular in Liguria and other parts of Italy but that is the legacy of a seafaring country.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Food, Genoa, Italian seafood, Italy restaurants, Language, Liguria, Mediterranean diet, Miscellany, Travel Tagged With: cucina di Genoa, eating in Italy, gelato, Genoa, Genoa food, Italian seafood, italian travel, pesto alla genoese, quaresemali, semifreddo

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