Simple Italy

Celebrating Your Inner Italian

  • Home
  • Contact us
  • Links

Flavors of Friuli

Posted November 5, 2013 by Sharon 4 Comments

Elisabeth Antoine Crawford traveled throughout Friuli for five years to research her new book.

Elisabeth Antoine Crawford presents an enticing journey through an Italian region that’s not well known by American travelers.

I’ve longed to travel through the region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia. But the closest I’ve come is wandering through the seductive Flavors of Friuli: A Culinary Journey through Northeastern Italy by Elisabeth Antoine Crawford.

For that day when I do travel to the region, I hope Crawford will have created an app. Otherwise, I’ll be forced to lug her three-pound, 368-page tome with me. It’s an exhaustively researched guide to the mountains, meadows, vineyards, and coasts, all with their own distinctive foods, wines, architecture, museums, attractions, and festivals.

Most Italian regions don’t border anything other than other Italian regions or the sea but not Friuli Venezia-Giulia. It juts north and east of the peninsula. It’s bordered by the Veneto to the west, Austria to the north, The Republic of Slovenia to the east, and the Adriatic Sea to the south. Romans, Venetians, Austro-Hungarians, and Slavs have all ruled this territory over the centuries. Parts of the region weren’t incorporated into the Republic of Italy until after World War I and the cosmopolitan city of Trieste not until 1954.

Middle European influences abound in dishes such as sauerkraut, buckwheat pasta, liptauer, goulasch, and torta Dobos. Yet, the region also produces foods that are recognized around the world as quintessentially Italian: prosciutto di San Daniele, Montasio cheese, and Illy caffè.

Author Elisabeth Antoine Crawford first traveled to Friuli to visit the Ledragomma factory near Udine. She was research a previous book Balance on the Ball, based on the teachings of Joseph Pilates.

Author Elisabeth Antoine Crawford spent five years traveling, researching, recipe-testing, and capturing travel and food images in Friuli.

Crawford, a former dancer and Pilates instructor, admits that many were puzzled when she chose Friuli as a research subject. “Friends who appreciate my passion for Italy have found it strange that I have been drawn to one of the country’s most un-Italian regions,” Crawford writes in her introduction.

“My answer is that possibly this is what intrigues me the most—the fact that it is so distinctive. For the same reason, I am drawn to fusion cuisine at home in San Francisco. Dishes that run the gamut from mildly unusual to outlandishly bizarre are simply more interesting to me.”

Cjalsòns di Treppo Carnico owe their distinctive flavors to the legacy of Carnian spice peddlers.

The complex flavors of Cjalsòns di Treppo Carnico are the legacy of Carnian spice peddlers.

Perhaps no dish typifies this exoticism better than the stuffed pasta called cjalsòns. “In every lush valley of the Carnia mountains, each cook prepares his or her own unique recipe, merging herbs and spices and creating a distinct shape and form for the dough,” Crawford writes.

“While there are generally two varieties—sweet and savory—the flavors often tend to overlap. The sweet cjalsòns may be filled with apples, pears, crushed biscotti, dried fruit, nuts, chocolate, and spices, but often contain savory herbs such as parsley, basil, and marjoram. Likewise, the savory cjalsòns have undertones of sweetness, combining such unlikely ingredients as potatoes, raisins, onions, cocoa, spinach, jam, and cheese. Both sweet and savory cjalsòns are served in melted butter and are typically topped with ricotta affumicata [smoked ricotta cheese] and a sprinkle of sugar and cinnamon.”

Nutmeg, cloves, saffron, cumin, caraway seeds, poppy seeds, and other seasonings are the legacy of the cramârs, Carnian peddlers who traveled throughout central Europe and brought home their wares to be integrated into the local style of cooking.

It was difficult to imagine how cjalsòns would taste so I made the recipe for Cjalsòns di Treppo Carnico that follows. Each bite of these airy pillows was a harmony of complex sweet and savory notes.

Cevapcici con Ajvar is quick and simple enough for a casual meal.

Cevapcici con Ajvar is quick and simple enough to prepare for a casual meal.

Next up, I prepared Cevapcici, fresh mixed meat sausages seasoned with garlic, paprika, black pepper, and cayenne. The accompanying Ajvar sauce will become a staple condiment in my repertoire. Prepared simply from roasted red bell pepper and eggplant that are pureed with olive oil, red wine vinegar, sugar, and cayenne pepper, it is a a magical condiment.

As I said, my exploration of Friuli is just beginning. With Crawford as my guide, I know fascinating destinations and intriguing flavors lie ahead.

Cjalsòns di Treppo Carnico
Print
Recipe type: primo
Cuisine: Italian
Author: Elisabeth Antoine Crawford, Flavors of Friuli ©Equilibrio
Serves: 4
I could not locate a source for the smoked ricotta. Even Eataly in Manhattan doesn't carry it and co-owner Lidia Bastianich is from Friuli Venezia-Giulia. Crawford recommended substituting ricotta salata.
Ingredients
  • Pasta Dough:
  • 1 cup semolina flour
  • ¼ cup boiling water, plus extra as needed
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • Filling:
  • ¼ cup raisins
  • 12 ounces white potatoes, peeled and quartered
  • 3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon olive oil, divided
  • 1 medium yellow onion, chopped
  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley
  • 2 tablespoons sugar
  • 1 teaspoon freshly grated lemon peel
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • Toppings:
  • ½ cup (1 stick) butter
  • ½ cup grated ricotta affumicata or ricotta salata
  • Ground cinnamon
  • Sugar
  • Raisins (optional)
  • Cinnamon sticks (optional)
Instructions
  1. To prepare the pasta dough: In a medium bowl, combine the flour, boiling water, and olive oil. Transfer the dough to a clean surface; knead until the flour is fully incorporated and the mixture becomes smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes. (If the dough is too dry or crumbly, lightly moisten your fingers with water during kneading until you reach the desired texture.) Cover with plastic wrap and let rest for 30 minutes.
  2. To prepare the filling: Place the raisins in a small bowl and cover with water. Let soak for 30 minutes; drain. Place the potatoes in a medium pot filled with water; bring to a boil over high heat. Cook until tender, about 20 minutes. Drain the potatoes and place in a medium bowl; mash well. Cool to room temperature.
  3. Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet over medium-low heat. Add the onion; cook and stir until golden brown and caramelized, about 30–40 minutes. Purée the onion in a food processor; stir into the mashed potatoes.
  4. Heat 1 teaspoon olive oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Add the parsley; cook and stir until wilted and beginning to brown, about 2 minutes. Stir into the potato mixture, along with the drained raisins, sugar, lemon peel, and salt. Refrigerate for 1 hour, or until ready to use.
  5. To stuff and cook: Working in batches, feed the dough through the rollers of a pasta machine until very thin (setting #7 on most machines). Cut out 3-inch circles from the dough. Place 1 heaping tablespoon filling on half the circles. Moisten the edges with water; cover each with another circle of dough, sealing the edges tightly.
  6. Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil over high heat. Working in batches, place the cjalsòns in the water; cook until they rise to the surface, about 1–2 minutes. Drain.
  7. To prepare the toppings: Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat; remove from heat. Add the cjalsòns and toss to coat with butter. Divide the cjalsòns among serving plates; drizzle with any excess butter from the skillet. Top with grated ricotta affumicata; sprinkle with cinnamon and sugar. Garnish with extra raisins and cinnamon sticks, if desired.
3.2.2124

Cevapcici con Ajvar
Print
Recipe type: Primo (main course)
Cuisine: Italian
Author: Elisabeth Antoine Crawford, Flavors of Friuli ©Equilibrio
Serves: 4
Ingredients
  • Cevapici:
  • 8 ounces ground beef
  • 8 ounces ground pork
  • 2 tablespoons finely chopped onion, plus extra for serving
  • 2 garlic cloves, minced
  • 1 teaspoon paprika
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • ½ teaspoon ground black pepper
  • Dash cayenne pepper
  • Ajvar:
  • 1 large red bell pepper
  • 1 small eggplant
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
  • 1 teaspoon sugar
  • Dash cayenne pepper
Instructions
  1. To prepare the Cevapcici:
  2. In a medium bowl, combine the ground beef, ground pork, 2 tablespoons onion, garlic, paprika, salt, black pepper, and cayenne pepper. Roll the mixture into sausages about 3 inches long and ¾ inch in diameter.
  3. Preheat grill (or heat a large skillet over medium-high heat). Place the sausages on the grill; cook until done, about 5–6 minutes, turning to brown each side. Serve with ajvar and chopped onion.
  4. To prepare the Ajvar: Preheat oven to 400°F. Place the bell pepper and eggplant on a baking sheet; bake until the eggplant is tender and the bell pepper skin begins to brown, about 30–40 minutes. When the bell pepper is cool enough to handle, remove and discard the skin, stem, and seeds. Slice open the eggplant and scoop out the flesh. Place the bell pepper and eggplant in a food processor, along with the olive oil, vinegar, sugar, and cayenne pepper; purée until smooth. Season to taste with salt.
3.2.2124

 

Filed Under: Books, Culture, Food, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Lifestyle, Markets, Recipes, Travel, Wine Tagged With: eggplant recipe, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Illy Caffe, Italian sausage, Montasio cheese, northeastern Italian cooking, prosciutto di San Daniele, red bell pepper recipe, stuffed Italian pasta, Trieste, Udine

« Abruzzo Green Tomato Pasta
A Vintage Tour of Italy »

Comments

  1. Walter Sanders says

    December 11, 2013 at 9:21 AM

    Hi Peter,

    What’s a Star without a Twinkle?
    A Sloan without a Boerwinkle?
    A Rocky without a Bullwinkle?

    I know my role…

    Walter

    Reply
  2. Peter says

    December 10, 2013 at 10:29 PM

    Tell me Waltter: Did YOU attempt these recipes, or did you merely pull up a stool in the kitchen, fork poised, waiting for them to be finished by the blog author? I admire your foresight to marry a chef!

    Reply
  3. walter sanders says

    November 6, 2013 at 9:04 PM

    I’m endlessly amazed by the culinary variations and food differences in Italy. This wonderful book, and its incredible recipes, celebrate those delicious surprises! We will visit Friuli soon, and the amazement will continue! I urge you to try the recipes in the piece. You’ll be astounded!

    Reply

Trackbacks

  1. Flavors of Friuli: Book Review at SimpleItaly.com | Flavors of Friuli says:
    November 7, 2013 at 1:22 PM

    […] Cookbook author Sharon Sanders has written a fantastic review of Flavors of Friuli, with two bonus recipes: Cjalsòns di Treppo Carnico and Cevapcici con Ajvar. Read it here at SimpleItaly.com. […]

    Reply

Join the Discussion! Cancel reply

Please submit your comment with a real name.

Thanks for your feedback!

Rate this recipe:  
Follow Simple Italy on FacebookFollow Simple Italy on RSS
Lasagne_19 Simple Italy's Greatest Hits at a click!
Lasagne alla Bolognese and more

Recent posts

  • The Hill Towns of Molise
  • Fior di Latte Cheese
  • In the Mood for Molise, Italy
  • Silk from the Sea in Sardinia
  • Driving a Ferrari Spider

Posts by Category

  • Abruzzo (12)
  • AirBnB (1)
  • Amalfi (8)
  • Archeology (3)
  • Architecture (21)
  • Art (19)
  • Artisans (4)
  • Automobiles (1)
  • Bakery (1)
  • Basilicata (3)
  • Bologna (4)
  • Books (21)
  • Calabria (4)
  • Campania (17)
  • Cooking Classes (5)
  • Cremona (2)
  • Culture (174)
  • dreamofitaly (1)
  • Driving in Italy (2)
  • Emilia Romagna (2)
  • Ferrari (1)
  • Ferrari Museum (1)
  • Film (22)
  • Florence (30)
  • Food (134)
  • Fred Plotkin (1)
  • Friuli-Venezia Giulia (2)
  • Gardening (25)
  • Genoa (2)
  • Golf in Italy (1)
  • Guides (1)
  • History (8)
  • Hotels (14)
  • Inner Italian Q & A (11)
  • Italian seafood (7)
  • Italy Artisans (3)
  • Italy restaurants (17)
  • Language (86)
  • Le Marche (4)
  • Lifestyle (113)
  • Liguria (2)
  • Lombardy cooking (5)
  • Lucca (3)
  • Mantua (1)
  • Markets (26)
  • Mediterranean diet (55)
  • Milan (1)
  • Miscellany (86)
  • Modena (1)
  • Molise (3)
  • Mt. Etna (1)
  • Music (9)
  • Naples (2)
  • New Orleans (2)
  • Opera (1)
  • Palermo (3)
  • People (3)
  • Photography (4)
  • Piedmont cooking (1)
  • Puglia (9)
  • Quotes (4)
  • Recipes (64)
  • Rome (8)
  • Salerno (3)
  • Sardinia (4)
  • Sicily (15)
  • Test Drive (1)
  • Testimonials (2)
  • Travel (110)
  • Trentino Alto-Adige (1)
  • Tuscan cooking (17)
  • Tuscany (30)
  • Venice (2)
  • Videos (2)
  • Wine (23)

Inside SimpleItaly

  • American Couple Marries Italian-Style
  • Appearances
  • Contact us
  • Cooking Up an Italian Life
  • Le Marche Tour with Luisa
  • Links
  • Palazzo Donati Sample Itinerary
  • Palazzo Donati Tours
  • Privacy and Site Policies
  • Publications and TV
  • Sharon’s Inner Italian
  • SimpleItaly Adventure in Tuscany Tour
  • Thank You
  • Walter’s Inner Italian

Tags

Abruzzo bucket list Ferragosto Florence Gardening gelato Genoa Inner Italian Italian cooking italian culture italian food Italian food stores italian language italian lifestyle Italian music italian recipes Italian tourism italian travel italian wine Italy Italy travel Lago di Como Lake Como Mediterranean diet mozzarella di bufala Naples tourism Paestum Paolo Conte pasta polenta porcini Puglia Rome Santa Croce Sardegna Sardinia Sicily Southern Italy Stile Mediterraneo Sulmona Tuscan cooking Tuscany Uffizi Gallery Villa Pipistrelli women and travel