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Mozzarella di Bufala

Posted November 10, 2010 by Sharon 9 Comments

An antipasto plate from Salerno province features fresh mozzarella di buffalo at 12 noon on the plate.

I think I know the reason that production of mozzarella di bufala increased by more than 11 percent in the first half of this year (according to the Mozzarella di Bufala Campana DOP consortium).

The bump in output coincided with my visit to Salerno Province—a major producer of mozzarella di bufala—where I savored the heavenly fresh cheese at every opportunity.

I learned that until you eat DOP (“protected designation of origin” zone) mozzarella on the day it is produced, you haven’t eaten true mozzarella. The milk of water buffalos is higher in fat (about 9 percent) than cow’s milk (about 4 percent) and fat = flavor + mouth feel. Tangy and supple mozzarella di bufala is simply divine.

Our group of travel professionals was invited to watch the artisans at the Fattoria del Casaro in Paestum making mozzarella. As we entered the spotless production room, we were cautioned to tread carefully. The tile floor was slick from dissolved milk fat splashing out of vats filled with steaming water and walnut-sized cheese curds.

Fresh curds of mozzarella form when water buffalo milk is mixed with naturally soured mozzarella whey and rennet.

The mozzarella men pulled the curds with a long stick to create skeins of cheese. Prior to the scalding stretch fest, the curds relaxed  in warm water for about four hours. The name mozzarella comes from the verb mozzare, meaning “to cut.” The stretched curds are pinched by hand  into varying sized balls or braids.

At Fattoria del Casaro in Paestum, artisans work the mozzarella curd.

In the U.S., fresh mozzarella di bufala is available in big city shops but is very expensive. A good alternative is cow’s milk mozzarella, called fior di latte “flower of milk.” Since freshness is its calling card, overcooking mozzarella is a big no-no. Melting it atop pizza is about as much cooking as it can take.

Fresh mozzarella shaped into una treccia, a braid.

In summer, a classic way to savor fresh mozzarella is in insalata caprese, named for the island of Capri. The dish is prepared by placing alternating slices of mozzarella and ripe tomatoes on a plate and drizzling with extra-virgin olive oil, fresh basil, salt and pepper.  New York-based cookbook author Arthur Schwartz, who teaches cooking classes in Paestum, writes in Naples at Table that vinegar is never used in a caprese. Also, he recommends cooks outside of Italy select ripe Big Boy tomatoes as a good stand in for the Caprese pomodori cuore di bue.

Here is a recipe from Naples at Table for a wonderful pasta dish made with fresh mozzarella.

Spaghetti con Melanzane e Mozzarella

(Spaghetti with Eggplant and Mozzarella)

1 pound eggplant, peeled or unpeeled, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

Salt

Oil for frying

2 large cloves garlic, lightly smashed

1/2 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes

1 pint (1 pound) cherry tomatoes, cut in halves or quarters

12 to 14 ounces spaghetti

2 tablespoons finely cut basil or parsley

8 ounces fresh or several-days-old mozzarella, cut into1/4-inch cubes

Grated Pecorino or ricotta salata

  1. Salt the eggplant and let it drain in a colander for 30 minutes or longer. Dry it well with paper towels, pressing the eggplant to remove moisture.
  2. In a skillet, heat about 1/2 inch of oil and fry the eggplant until it is soft and lightly browned. Remove the eggplant with a slotted spoon and drain on absorbent paper.
  3. Pour out (and discard) all but about 2 tablespoons of the frying oil. Add the garlic and the pepper flakes and place over low heat. Cook the garlic, pressing it into the oil a couple of times to release its flavor, until it barely begins to color on both sides. Remove the garlic.
  4. Add the tomatoes, immediately cover the pan, increase the heat to medium-high, and cook the tomatoes until they fall apart and become saucy, about 8 minutes.
  5. Meanwhile cook the spaghetti until al dente in plenty of salted boiling water.
  6. Just before the pasta id done, add the eggplant cubes to the tomato sauce, lower the heat, and cook gently, still covered, for another minute or so.
  7. Drain the spaghetti and turn it into a well-warmed serving bowl. Add the eggplant and tomato sauce, plus the finely cut herb. Toss well. Add the mozzarella and toss again.
  8. Serve immediately. Garnish with some grated Pecorino or ricotta salata if desired.

La Fattoria del Casaro packages mozzarella di bufala for airplane carry-on.  You can also purchase fresh mozzarella di bufala from Fattorie Garofalo which has a shop in Naples Capodichino Airport.

Filed Under: Campania, Food, Language, Lifestyle, Mediterranean diet, Recipes, Salerno, Travel Tagged With: Arthur Schwartz, genuine mozzarella, insalata caprese, mozzarella di bufala, Paestum, spaghetti with eggplant and mozzarella

« Salerno On My Mind
Pasticceria Sal de Riso »

Comments

  1. Vesa Heiskari says

    December 20, 2010 at 8:00 AM

    I have been living in Gaeta, about 90 kms from Naples. I must be the biggest mozzarella-fan in the world. I eat it every day, many small balls a day…
    I am from Finland and we do not have Mozzarella at all. Well, some shops produce it from Italy, but it is already old as it comes to Finland.
    I have not become fat although I eat it so much! I have read that there is only 7,5% fat. But some other sites say, there is even 25% fat. Who knows the truth, nobody….

    Reply
    • Sharon says

      December 20, 2010 at 8:47 AM

      Ciao, Vesa,

      Thanks for commenting. Gaeta is a pretty spot!

      It’s my belief that the food in Italy is still more pure than other places. If you eat good simple food instead of junk, you don’t get fat.

      Sharon

      Reply
  2. tofood says

    November 30, 2010 at 5:12 PM

    I love mozzarella di bufala every time I go back to Italy I go to a farm, in my region Puglia, where I can buy fresh ones so good!

    Reply
  3. Massimo Melani says

    November 19, 2010 at 11:54 AM

    I live in toscany but i appreciate “La mozzarella di bufala” and think Pontecagnano (20 km from Salerno) is the best place to taste it. The real Bufala has to be tasted in very tiny balls, like a cherry,and…local white wine or better a good Alcamo di Sicilia……..Buon appetito.

    Reply
  4. The Food Hunter says

    November 13, 2010 at 12:21 PM

    I was able to have some freshly made mozzarella di buffalo on my last trip to Italy. It was amazing

    Reply
  5. UrbanTravelGirl says

    November 11, 2010 at 7:45 AM

    Sharona, mozzarella di bufala is TRULY one of my favorite foods in the world… and if I were having my last meal, SURELY I’d have to find a way to incorporate it!! Thanks for sharing this delicious-sounding recipe… and although I’m not a great cook, I’d be willing to give this one a try!

    A presto,
    Marina/UrbanTravelGirl

    Reply
  6. Michelle | Bleeding Espresso says

    November 11, 2010 at 4:19 AM

    IMHO there are few things more wonderful in this world than the marriage of mozzarella di bufala, eggplant, tomatoes, and basil. LOVE.

    Reply
    • Sharon says

      November 11, 2010 at 8:12 AM

      Michelle,
      Thanks for commenting. It’s funny, I just linked to Bleeding Espresso yesterday. We share a PA bond. I grew up in central PA. You are eastern PA, yes?
      Sharon

      Reply

Trackbacks

  1. Mozzarella di buffalo | Seidoch says:
    July 6, 2011 at 9:39 PM

    […] Discovering genuine mozzarella di bufala is worth the journey. […]

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