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Eataly New York

Posted October 6, 2010 by Sharon 5 Comments

Grazie to our friend Jessica Young, talented NYC private chef for beating us to the newly launched Eataly, at 200 Fifth Ave,  in Manhattan. You can catch her tour on her blog Vittle Me This.

A co-production of the Italian Eataly stores, affiliated with Slow Food, and the Mario Batali organization, the emporium houses a grocery with artisanal ingredients, fresh and cured meats, and fresh foods as well as several restaurants.

Jessica, we loved your description of Romanesco as cauliflower that had sex with a Christmas tree!

Ci vediamo all’ Eataly!

Filed Under: Culture, Food, Italy restaurants, Lifestyle, Markets Tagged With: Eataly, Italian food stores, italian wine, Mario Batali

Wine Therapy

Posted August 13, 2010 by Sharon Leave a Comment

Are you coming off a pressure cooker week at work?

Just imagine restoring yourself with The “Wave of Bacchus” Sangiovese wine scrub or another luxe viniferous therapy at Spa bellaUve in Torgiano, Italy.

Listen as NPR correspondent Sylvia Poggioli dips into old “Books of Secrets” as she tours this Umbrian spa operated by the Lungarotti winery.

Filed Under: Culture, Lifestyle, Travel, Wine Tagged With: Italian spas, italian travel, italian wine, Lungarotti Wines, NPR, Sangiovese grapes, Torgiano

Italian White Wines for Summer

Posted June 13, 2010 by Walter 2 Comments

Here’s a fresh look at some ancient grape types that are worthy of your summertime quaffing consideration.

The parameters for this collection are:

  • Italian whites
  • Widely available
  • Under $15.00 per bottle
  • No Pinot Grigio (not that there’s anything wrong with Pinot Grigio!)

Garganega

From the Veneto, long a mainstay (blended with Trebbiano) for Soave, this grape can bring a lush, pear, melon and apricot experience.

Ferdi, Bianco Veronese, 2006, IGT, Sartori, $14.99

Mass maker Sartori delivers value and juicy fruit with this winner. Sharon says “Wow, I even get some honey in here!”

Vermentino

Victor Hazan thinks the Vermentino arrived from Spain to Liguria…then migrated to Sardinia.  Others believe in the Spanish origin, but see it arriving in Sardinia via Corsica. It thrives in heat and dryness and is grown successfully in Sardinia, Liguria and coastal Tuscany. Aromatic fireworks…sometimes with deep piney herbs, other times more plump, rounded and melony.

Costamolino, Vermentino di Sardegna, 2008, DOC, Agriolas $14.99

This classic is tightly structured, firm, spirited and bright to the taste.

Prelius, Vermentino Maremma, 2008, IGT,Volpaia, $9.99

This is a wonderful example of the Tuscan coastal success with Vermentino. Nice grip, piney nose, breezy.

Catarratto

It’s the most planted white wine grape and the second-most planted grape (behind Sangiovese) in Italy. Long a blending wine, it can be a refreshing party or picnic pleaser, when handled by a caring producer.

La Piazza, Catarratto, 2007, IGT, Cantine Calatrasi, $10.99

Simple, just a hint of pear…like a soft wind blowing into Trapani.

Donnafugata 2007, IGT, Anthili, $14.99

This pleasurable blend of Catarratto and Ansonica (Inzolia) symbolizes the growth of the Sicilian wine industry. Crisp, delicate fruit hints of peach. You’ll get some attention with this one.

Falanghina

I’ve come to enjoy this grape over the years….and especially since our visit to Campania. It’s a beachside natural.

Falanghina Sannio, 2007, DOC, Fuedi Di San Gregorio, $16.99

I pushed the $15.00 envelope with this beauty…but it still represents great value. Bracing, in a sea breeze manner, with crisp fruit and a waft of pine.

Do you have a special Italian summer white? Leave a comment and tell us about it.

Filed Under: Culture, Wine Tagged With: Italian white wine, italian wine, summer wines

Sommelier, M.D.

Posted September 11, 2009 by Walter 5 Comments

An Inner Italian Moment

Poggio il Castellare Brunello di Montalcino 2003 may be just what the doctor orders.

Poggio il Castellare Brunello di Montalcino 2003 may be just what the doctor orders.

By Walter Sanders

Recently, I had a routine medical procedure that necessitated anesthesia.

The anesthesiologist had gone through the drill thousands of times. He used well-practiced patter to recite a comical sedation flavor menu…to put me at ease, I’m sure.

“Today we have orange, vanilla, peach, watermelon, bubblegum, strawberry, and lemon. Which do you prefer?”

I paused.

“What I’d really prefer is Brunello di Montalcino. Is that available?”

That stopped him cold. Real cold.

Seconds passed. Yikes. Had I broken his rhythm? Had I crossed the sacred line between anesthesiologist and patient? Was I stealing his attempt at humor?

Finally, with a touch of wonderment in his voice, he said “That’s my favorite red wine.”

“Yeah, one of mine, too,” I said.

“Where did you learn about it?” I asked.

“Three years ago in Tuscany my wife and I took a side trip from Florence to Montalcino and I had my first glass with dinner there. I love that wine.”

We talked a little more about Italian vino. I felt much more at ease being in the capable hands of a mellow Brunello fellow.

Then he put me under. The procedure was a success.

Filed Under: Culture, Lifestyle, Wine Tagged With: Brunello di Montalcino, italian wine, Montalcino, Poggio il Castellare, sommelier, Tuscany

Antinori’s Tormaresca in Puglia

Posted June 7, 2009 by Walter 3 Comments

Adriatic coastal vineyard at Masseria Maime.

Tormaresca vines planted on the Adriatic coast at Masseria Maime in Puglia.

After 26 generations and more than 600 years in the wine business, the Antinori family of Tuscany has expanded its involvement in Puglia. This is a big deal. It certainly got my wine juices going as we received confirmation to visit the new Tormaresca operation at Masseria Maìme in the Salento DOC.

In 1971, Marchese Piero Antinori, helped light the dawn of the super-Tuscan blends with a Sangiovese/Cabernet sauvignon blend called Tignanello. (Piero’s uncle, Marchese Mario Incisa della Rochetta of Sassicaia, first commercially released his fabled super-Tuscan Sassicaia in 1968.)

In the 1990s, the Antinori family invested in Puglia, the heel of Italy, a region that has traditionally been recognized more for the quantity, than the quality, of its wine grapes. A number of economic and terroir factors helped drive the decision. Land prices (especially compared to Tuscany) were inexpensive. Soil conditions and climate were conducive to expanding production of native grape types and some international varieties as well.

Maria Tolentino De Bellis, Tormaresca’s marketing and PR representative, suggested we meet at the San Pietro Vernotico train station. I thought it was odd that we couldn’t just connect at the winery. It didn’t take long to realize that the Antinori presence in Puglia was large – but subtle. Maria drove us up a gravel road marked only by a modest, hand-painted sign that read Vigneti del Sud, “Southern Vineyards,” with no mention of the super-star Antinori name.

The sun is a powerful prescence on the Salento Peninsula.

The sun is a powerful prescence on the Salento Peninsula.

At the cantina, she introduced us to Giuseppe “Peppino” Palumbo, the CEO of Tormaresca. He was dressed in work clothes and had the sun-drenched, weathered look of an executive who spends more time in the vineyards then he does in the board room.

I asked Peppino about the branding strategy behind the Puglian venture.

“Tormaresca is a fantasy name, a play on the Puglian dialect, and means Tower by the Sea,” he explained. “It’s also an extension of the Antinori philosophy to respect local tradition and original vines, while leveraging technology to improve the results. We respect the past, but we never stop innovating.”

We jumped into his SUV, and bumped out on rough trails alongside the vineyards. Peppino pointed out some Negroamaro grapes planted with a cordon trained system, as well as some older vines still in the traditional Alberello system — without support.

We headed east until we reached the beach grass and dunes of the Adriatic shore. “The terroir and growing conditions are perfect,” he said.

Back at the cantina, Peppino raved about indigenous Puglian grapes. “Negroamaro is wonderful. Primitivo (identified by enologists at U Cal Davis as the genetic clone of California Zinfandel) is well suited for this climate. And Aglianco, the red grape we grow further north at our Bocca Di Lupo vineyard, earned a 91 from Parker.”

I asked Peppino about two ancient Puglian grape types, Sussumaniello and Ottavianello I had learned about from Cinzia Rascazzo of Stile Mediterraneo.

Peppino looked pleased about the question and smiled. “Yes, we found some growing here and will preserve and cultivate them. We are experimenting with them now to complement Negroamaro and add a little color.”

The time was running late, and I asked Peppino if I could use a phone to call our next stop to let them know I’d be a little tardy.

“Who are you visiting next?” he asked.

“Candido” I answered.

“I have them in my cell phone.” He noticed that I looked a little surprised. “We’re not rivals. We both flow together in the same current of wine, and the trip is easier if we run together, not against each other.”

For a sampling of Tormaresca here in the U.S., pour these two.

Neprica IGT (Negroamaro, Primitivo and Cabernet grapes) I love this super-Puglian which is every bit as intriguing as a more expensive super-Tuscan.

Neprica is an I.G.T. blend of Negroamaro, Primitivo, and Cabernet grapes.

Neprica is an IGT blend of Negroamaro, Primitivo, and Cabernet grapes.

Masseria Maìme IGT (Negroamaro grapes) is spectacular with grilled meats and fish.

Maime is 100 percent Negroamaro grapes.

Masseria Maime is 100 percent Negroamaro grapes.

Coming next: Our visit to Candido Wines.

Filed Under: Culture, Language, Puglia, Travel, Wine Tagged With: Antinori, italian culture, italian wine, Puglia, Salento, Tormaresca, Travel, Tuscany

Ristorante Clemente

Posted May 8, 2009 by Sharon 15 Comments

Ristorante Clemente in Sulmona offers the genuine dishes of Abruzzo.

Ristorante Clemente in Sulmona offers the genuine dishes of Abruzzo.

We weren’t being fair to Ristorante Clemente. We knew it . . . but we couldn’t help ourselves. We had allotted one night, one dinner in Abruzzo, a region in which neither of us had passed time. We sought to “taste Abruzzo” in that one meal. No small order.

We were in the small city of Sulmona on our way to Puglia. Our Ital’guru Fred Plotkin, author of Italy for the Gourmet Traveler, picks Sulmona as his “Classic Town” of the mountainous region east of Rome. Ristorante Clemente appears first on his “Dining List” and his description appealed to us. For insurance, we inquired of our hotelier and a local barista where we should dine. “Clemente,” they both answered. We even scouted out the restaurant location, tucked on a tiny back street, so we’d have no problem finding it later in the dark.

So it was that Walter roused me from a my nap at 7:15 p.m. so we could arrive when the doors opened for dinner service. He worried that a place this touted would fill up fast. No such problem transpired. Upon entry, we were invited to choose our own table and selected one deep in the rear of the main room under a splendid stone vaulted ceiling. Stone and gesso walls the color of cantaloupe cream, exciting food-related art work, photos of family members and a couple canvasses and prints of Sulmona created a cozy setting.

Chef Clemente Maiorano (right), son Alessandro (left), and another sous chef in the Clemente kitchen.

Chef Clemente Maiorano (right), son Alessandro (left), and another sous chef in the Clemente kitchen.

Chef/owner Clemente Maiorano, with warm brown eyes and salt-and-pepper Julius Caesar haircut-greeted us with a one-page menu. We asked if we could place our appetites in his able hands. He seemed pleased and disappeared through the archway into the kitchen. The waiter took over and reminded us how perfect service in Italy can be. Not obsequious, not aloof, just professional.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Abruzzo, Culture, Food, Italy restaurants, Language, Lifestyle, Travel, Wine Tagged With: Abruzzo, italian food, italian wine, Italy, Ristorante Clemente, Sulmona

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