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Whites for Summer

Posted May 8, 2003 by Walter Leave a Comment

Prices range from $10 to $15 per 750 ml. bottle
Selections marked with an * are available in 1.5 liter bottles

THE CLASSICS

Gavi

An elegant white made from the Cortese grape, comes from the Piedmont — way up northwest in Italy. Well balanced, fine and dry — a great complement to grilled fish, poultry and pork.

Orvieto

From Umbria, just south of Tuscany, this pale beauty provides a quiet canvas upon which to paint the brilliant flavors of summer vegetables and salads.

Pinot Grigio*
Usually from northern Lombardy or Veneto, has made its way onto nearly every restaurant wine list in America. Some snobs complain that it’s not memorable, but it brings out the best of vibrant summer cooking.

Soave*
This soft, lightly fruity, unobtrusive blend of Gargenega and Trebbiano or Chardonnay is produced in the Veneto. If you can find a Soave Classico, you’ll pay a bit more, but you’ll buy additional personality.

Vernaccia di San Gimignano
From an ancient Tuscan vine, this austere beauty was Italy’s first name and origin controlled (DOC) wine. Its characteristic slightly bitter finish evokes nothing but sweet memories of my many visits to that little town with the amazing towers.

HIDDEN GEMS

Erbaluce di Caluso
This varietal from Piedmont is pleasing, delicate and dry. The color is a soft yellow blush and it has a fresh, brisk nose. Excellent with grilled seafood.

Tocai Friulano
Related to French Sauvignon, this variety is dry and delicate. The 2000 I enjoyed had a grassy nose that gave way to a pleasing spring sage flavor on the tongue. Don’t confuse this Tocai with the strongly sweet Hungarian Tokaji or the Alsace Tokay.

Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesu

From the Marches, east of Tuscany, the traditional amphora-shaped bottles that used to be marketed here have been replaced with less gimmicky glass. The 2000 has a crisp, fresh citrusy nose, with a husky, broad taste that picked up some deep apricot tones. Great with grilled salmon.

Vermentino di Sardegna
From Sardinia, this clean, light varietal had a light citrus nose and bright, almost lemony on the palate. Marries nicely with grilled poultry.

Nuragus di Cagliari
Another lively Sardinian, this varietal is slightly acidic at first taste, then softens with the meal. The color is spectacular: bright, deep yellow with brilliant green highlights.

Filed Under: Miscellany Tagged With: italian wine

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