Simple Italy

Celebrating Your Inner Italian

The Hill Towns of Molise

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Actor Robert De Niro’s great-grandparents emigrated from the Molisan hill town of Ferrazzano.

Even a casual observer of mass Italian tourism reads and hears the commentary.

Tuscany is overrun with outsiders.

Venice is sinking under hordes of cruise line passengers.

Rome is deluged with foreigners.

The Cinque Terre is so crowded that’s it has lost its once-remote allure.

Capri is a tourist trap.

These magnificent places attract multitudes who come to experience the magnificent art, history, cuisines, cultures, and natural beauty.

While it’s the job of the government, tourism industry, and local communities to sort out the long-term future of mass tourism in Italy, it’s my good fortune to offer a plan for right now.

Simply get off the tourism conveyor belt. Each time Walter and I travel to Italy, we choose to explore places that are new to us. Like the region of Molise. We wander, dine, learn, and laugh surrounded by Italians instead of English, German, or Chinese-language speakers.

And isn’t that the reason we all want to experience Italy?

Oratino, Molise

During our recent sojourn in the city of Campobasso, our B&B host Luciano Viola, urged us to drive up to Oratino for lunch at Ristorante Olmicello. He seemed so intent on the prospect that we began to wonder if he was a shareholder in the business. Turns out, Luciano was just the best at promoting some of his area’s finest.

As dramatic spring clouds scuttled across a brilliant blue sky, we made the 15-minute drive northwest of Campobasso to Oratino. In the small park and overlook, we soaked in a verdant vista.

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Driving a Ferrari Spider

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By Walter Sanders

We almost made it to the Enzo Ferrari House and Museum in Modena, Italy. The founder of the legendary automobile brand was from this prosperous town in Emilia-Romagna.

The museum was open. We were well within visiting hours. We had the money to enter.

But I got distracted.

A young woman standing on the sidewalk outside the museum entrance was handing out flyers. She was promoting Ferrari test drives.

And what a perfect spot for that offer! Passers-by arriving there have already self-selected their interest in Ferrari and the museum.

We talked for a bit. She explained that there were a couple of cars — a pair of Ferraris — just down the street available for driving. I could take a short spin for 150 Euro.

“That’s a lot of money. But at least we could have a fun photo opp with a car.” I said to Sharon.

Then Sharon said, “Hmmm, let’s take a look.” I interpreted that as maybe, just maybe, tacit approval.

Driving Reward?

This was our last full day of a ten-week adventure in Italy. I had logged just shy of 4,900 kilometers from Milan through Sardinia, Sicily, Molise and back again on a more-than-adequate Peugeot 308 station wagon.

It was sporty enough with six forward gears and had shapely lines for a middle-of-the-road passenger automobile. But a thrill to drive? No.

So perhaps Sharon encouraging this Ferrari flirtation with me was some sort of payback for handling the unique opportunities and challenges that define driving in Italy. I’ll never know. I didn’t ask and Sharon isn’t talking.

But as we headed down the street, I was getting excited. [Read more…]