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The Hill Towns of Molise

Posted October 23, 2019 by Sharon 1 Comment

Actor Robert De Niro’s great-grandparents emigrated from the Molisan hill town of Ferrazzano.

Even a casual observer of mass Italian tourism reads and hears the commentary.

Tuscany is overrun with outsiders.

Venice is sinking under hordes of cruise line passengers.

Rome is deluged with foreigners.

The Cinque Terre is so crowded that’s it has lost its once-remote allure.

Capri is a tourist trap.

These magnificent places attract multitudes who come to experience the magnificent art, history, cuisines, cultures, and natural beauty.

While it’s the job of the government, tourism industry, and local communities to sort out the long-term future of mass tourism in Italy, it’s my good fortune to offer a plan for right now.

Simply get off the tourism conveyor belt. Each time Walter and I travel to Italy, we choose to explore places that are new to us. Like the region of Molise. We wander, dine, learn, and laugh surrounded by Italians instead of English, German, or Chinese-language speakers.

And isn’t that the reason we all want to experience Italy?

Oratino, Molise

During our recent sojourn in the city of Campobasso, our B&B host Luciano Viola, urged us to drive up to Oratino for lunch at Ristorante Olmicello. He seemed so intent on the prospect that we began to wonder if he was a shareholder in the business. Turns out, Luciano was just the best at promoting some of his area’s finest.

As dramatic spring clouds scuttled across a brilliant blue sky, we made the 15-minute drive northwest of Campobasso to Oratino. In the small park and overlook, we soaked in a verdant vista.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Culture, Driving in Italy, Food, Italy restaurants, Lifestyle, Molise, Travel Tagged With: discover new places in Italy, Italian hill towns, italian travel, Molise, off-the-beaten-path Italy

In the Mood for Molise, Italy

Posted September 19, 2019 by Sharon 1 Comment

The village of San Giuliano del Sannio in Molise.

My love affair with Italy started in Tuscany a long time ago but has expanded to other regions since then. The more I traveled and reported throughout the peninsula, the more I discovered new ingredients and cooking styles, dialects that didn’t sound like Dante’s Tuscan Italian, myriad cultural heritages, new-to-me wines, and more Saints Feast Days than I can recount. Maybe, I thought, there’s no such thing as “Italian culture” but rather “Italian cultures.”

The boulevards in Turin, Piedmont, looked more to me like Paris than Rome.

The white city of Ostuni, Puglia, resembled a sun-bleached Greek island instead of a hilltown floating in a silver-green sea of olive trees.

Ponte de Legno in Alpine Lombardy seemed Swiss while the architecture of Modica in southern Sicily appeared Spanish. Yet, all these places and more are the vibrant threads in the glorious tapestry of Italy.

Intrigued by all of these Italys, I’ve promised myself to spend quality time in each of the nation’s 20 regions, roughly the equivalent of a US state.

These are the regions I’ve explored:
Toscana
Umbria
Lazio
Emilia-Romagna
Veneto
Piemonte
Lombardia
Abruzzo
Puglia
Basilicata
Le Marche
Campania

On a trip from March-June this year, Walter and I checked out Liguria, Sardinia, Sicilia, and Molise.

Molise has been on my radar screen for the last year or so. Travel media have begun promoting it as “undiscovered,” “unspoiled,” and “not touristy.” Can calling it “the next Tuscany” be far off?

What You Won’t Find in Molise: Tourists

Hilltowns dot the countryside of Molise.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Abruzzo, Culture, Miscellany, Molise Tagged With: bucket list, Campobasso, Italian regions, Italian tourism, italian travel, Italy off the beaten path, Molise, Southern Italy, the next Tuscany

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