italian recipes

Simple Italy Greatest Hits

Posted February 6, 2018 by Sharon 1 Comment

Le cose cambiano. Things change.

SimpleItaly is evolving. Fresh posts will appear less frequently. Our greatest hits, however, are always a click away. When we discover a new Italian regional recipe, destination, experience, or person, we’ll share the gems with our fellow Inner Italians.

Let’s re-visit some of our fondest timeless memories–encompassing cooking, wine appreciation, people, music, movies, art and serendipitous experiences–from a decade of SimpleItaly.

Bolognese-style lasagna

Lasagna alla Bolognese (Bolognese-style lasagna), a dish that embodies the allure of slow food, has only four components–fresh spinach noodles, ragu, balsamella, Parmigiano-Reggiano–but each deserves attention.

Flavors of Friuli

Elizabeth Antoine Crawford traveled throughout Friuli for five years to research her new book.

Sauerkraut, poppyseed, and cinnamon-sugar on pasta. Is this Italian cooking? It is in the northeastern region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia. These seductive ingredients and more are explored in Flavors of Friuli: A Culinary Journey through Northeastern Italy.

A truffle hunter with his prized partner.

On the Truffle Trail in Le Marche

Acqualagna is all about truffles. One-fourth of the residents are qualified truffle hunters and 70 percent of Italy’s truffle dogs are trained here. The white truffle is celebrated each autumn with the Fiera Nazionale del Tartufo Bianco. (This article first appeared in the November 2011 issue  of the travel newsletter Dream of Italy.

Confetti Town

Lining the main streets of Sulmona, in Abruzzo, are shop after shop selling confetti, the confectionary for which the town is famous. It sounds simple: start with almonds, pistachios or hazelnuts and coat them with multiple layers of molten sugar cane syrup. This dessert artistry has been evolving since Roman times when almonds were coated with honey. The results are magnificent. They are edible mosaics, work so detailed, artistic and well-executed that they fool your eye. Of course these are real flowers . . . no, they are confetti.

Brides of Amalfi

Love was in the air during a visit to the Amalfi Coast.

Ragazzi Reminisce

The Leather School, tucked in back of The Basilica of Santa Croce, is the scene for this dynamic duo’s meeting.

C’era una volta. . . once upon a time. . . Max (Massimo Melani) met Wally (Walter Sanders) in Firenze. (Spoiler alert: An iconic Florentine panino plays a supporting role.) Here’s the story in their own words.

The Inner Italian Q & A: Melissa Muldoon

All of our Inner Italians shared delightful personal journeys but, so far, only one has gone on to become an Italian language and travel diva. Artist, designer, cultural conduit, and author Melissa Muldoon hosts La Studentessa Matta (The Crazy Student).

Whites for Summer

In his wine commentaries, Walter seeks out the best, most affordable, wine produced from Italian grapes. He hopes to raise awareness of indigenous varietals that deserve a place on your table.

Lemon Semifreddo

The spoon dessert semifreddo translates as “half frozen.” A cross between a frozen soufflé and gelato, a semifreddo delivers the plush mouthfeel of frozen meringue with the luxurious richness of cream. This lemon version pairs well with red berries.

Malika Ayane

Of this sensational pop vocalist, Paolo Conti said: “Il colore di questa voce è un arancione scuro che sa di spezia amara e rara.” The color of this voice is a dark orange with a dark and rare spice.

Cinema Italiana

SimpleItaly adores this hangdog comedy. What happens to those Italians left behind during Ferragosto, the national August vacation? One such scenario is brilliantly portrayed in the 2008 film Pranzo di Ferragosto released in the U.S. as Mid-August Lunch. Gianni di Gregorio, who co-wrote the script and directs, stars as the soulful Gianni who lives in the heart of Rome with his 93-year-old mother, exquisitely played by Valeria De Franciscis.

Do you have a cherished Inner Italian memory? Share it below.

Polenta all’Arrabiata

Posted January 26, 2012 by Sharon 7 Comments

I shake my head when I see Italian polenta on a menu or magazine article presented as some exotic gourmet dish. Where I came from (that would be the wilds of central Pennsylvania) cornmeal boiled in water is cornmeal mush. Has been for a long time. American writer Joel Barlow wrote a mock-epic poem about this humble daily staple. As a New Englander, he knew the porridge as hasty pudding.

Thee the soft nations round the warm Levant
Palanta call, the French of course Polante;
E’en in thy native regions how I blush
To hear the Pennsylvanians call thee Mush!
On Hudson’s banks, while men of Belgic spawn
Insult and eat thee by the name suppawn.
All spurious appellations; void of truth:
I’ve better known thee from my earliest youth,
Thy name is Hasty-Pudding!

The Hasty-Pudding, Joel Barlow, 1793

Italy didn’t have corn, of course, until Columbus brought it back from the Americas. While the habit of eating fresh corn never really caught on among Italians, cooking the ground dried kernels did. Generations of Italian peasants survived on polenta. I once interviewed an American woman whose father had grown up in the Veneto. His family ate polenta three times a day. On good days, a few pieces of salami or cheese might accompany the porridge.

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Gratinata di Zucchini

Posted July 7, 2010 by Sharon 8 Comments

Sure, the happy yellow blooms look pretty now.

Oh, and look, some of the flowers have baby zucchini growing out of them. How cute!

Ah, but in a a span of days, those diminutive veggies will explode to gargantuan proportions.

Act now! Pick your zucchini when they are no more than 1-inch wide. You’ll thank me later.

To prepare a gratinata, slice the zucchini very thin on the finest setting of a mandoline or with the slicing blade of a food processor.

This easy dish is always a hit because the cheese and olive oil not only add terrific flavor to the mild squash, they help to crisp up the texture. It’s equally delicious served warm or at room temperature.

Gratinata di Zucchini

Extra-virgin olive oil

3/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1/2 cup plain dry breadcrumbs

2 pounds small zucchini (1-inch diameter) very thinly sliced

Salt

1/4 cup coarsely chopped pine nuts or almonds

Preheat a grill to 375°F. On a sheet of waxed paper, combine the breadcrumbs and Parmesan.

Oil the bottom of a 13 x 10 x 1-inch baking sheet with sides. Coat with one-third of the Parmesan mixture. Place one third of the zucchini slices in an even layer in the pan. Season lightly with salt. Repeat layering twice. Drizzle lightly with oil. Sprinkle evenly with the pine nuts.

Bake in the covered grill over indirect heat for about 40 minutes or until browned and sizzling. Remove from the grill to cool for at least 15 minutes before serving. Serve warm or at room temperature.

What’s your favorite way to cope with zucchini bounty? Leave a comment below.

Italian Rice Salad

Posted June 25, 2010 by Sharon 7 Comments

I always associate Rice Salad with summer in Rome. Even when it’s sweltering and your appetite is wilted, this refreshing dish will revive it.

Please look at this recipe as only a guideline. Rice salad is the type of preparation, like pasta, that is totally open to improvisation. Vary it throughout the season with whatever vegetables are ripe. For instance, use chopped tomatoes instead of roasted bell pepper. And, if you have leftover cooked rice on hand, the dish takes only minutes to create.

You can serve it as is for a main-dish for a luncheon. Or, toss in 1 to 2 cups of drained tuna fish, cooked shrimp, or sliced cooked Italian sausage, for a more substantial salad.

As a side with dinner, serve with grilled meats, poultry, seafood, or vegetables.

Summer Rice Salad

Serves 8 to 10

2 cups medium or long-grain rice

2 cans (14 1/2 ounces each) reduced-sodium chicken or vegetable broth

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1 medium-large sweet or red onion, chopped

5 tablespoons red or white wine vinegar

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 ribs of celery hearts, chopped

1 1/2 cups chopped sweet pea pods or frozen baby peas, rinsed

1/2 cup shredded Provolone, Swiss Gruyère, Parmesan, Tuscan Pecorino, or Spanish Manchego cheese

1 roasted red or yellow bell pepper, chopped

3 tablespoons drained capers or slivered green or black olives

Ground black pepper

In a large pot, combine the rice, broth, 1/2 cup water, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat so medium-low so rice simmers. Cook for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside, covered, for 5 minutes.

Coat a large tray with no-stick spray. With a fork spread the rice on a large tray. Stir occasionally to speed cooling.

In a small bowl, combine the onion, 2 tablespoons vinegar, and enough cold water to cover. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate.

In a large bowl, whisk 1/3 cup oil, 3 tablespoons vinegar, and 1 teaspoon salt. Add the celery, peas, cheese, pepper, capers or olives, and rice. Toss to mix. Cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour to chill.

To serve, drain and rinse the onions. Add to the salad. Season to taste with black pepper. Toss the salad. Drizzle with a bit more olive oil and vinegar if needed.

Serve right away or cover and refrigerate for several hours. Allow to sit at room temperature for 15 minutes before serving.

Ragú

Posted February 16, 2010 by Sharon 1 Comment

Ragú is the Italian term for long-simmered, mellow meat sauce that dresses pasta or polenta. It varies from region to region, sometimes prepared with large chunks of meat, sometimes with ground, or more properly, finely minced meat.

I’ve sampled ragú of duck, rabbit, mixed meats, and sausages and have never encountered one that failed to satisfy my appetite. Arguably the most renowned of Italian meat sauces is ragú alla bolognese from the storied food city of Bologna. It is classically prepared with a combination of chopped beef, veal, or pork, and, in the good old days, was finished with heavy cream. Milk is now more often used.

Finely chopping onion, celery, and carrot into a mxiture called a battuto is the first step in making a ragu.

Ragú alla bolognese is not as tomatoey as the meat sauces of the south that influenced Italian American sauces. The tomato acidity in a bolognese is balanced by the sweetness of the sautéed aromatic vegetables—the soffrito, or flavor base.

The soffrito should be lightly caramelized but not browned. This sauteed vegetable mixture is the flavor base of ragu.

A properly cooked soffrito is one of the secrets to a divine ragu.

It’s essential to cook the soffrito slowly to lightly caramelize the vegetables without browning them. I like to remove the soffrito from the pot so the meats can brown without the steam created by the veggies.

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Bollito Misto

Posted January 17, 2010 by Sharon 3 Comments

bollito In northern Italy’s sub-Alpine areas, particularly Piedmont and Lombardy, Bollito Misto (mixed boil) is the culinary cure for chilly damp winters. Not so much an exact recipe as it is a ritual, the dish can include beef, veal, cotechino sausage, chicken or capon and aromatic vegetables. Tougher cuts of meat are simmered slowly in water—not actually boiled at all—for hours until they are fork tender and the resulting broth is liquid heaven. I actually crave hot broth in the cold months. I believe my body is saying, “I need to be hydrated. I need some savory steam to open my dry air passages.”

In Italy, bollito misto is typically prepared for a crowd because it takes so many different ingredients to achieve the desired flavor complexity. The broth is often ladled into bowls as a first course, sometimes embellished with tortellini and Parmesan cheese. The meats are then served separately as a secondo, or second plate, garnished with mostarda di frutta, salsa rosa, or salsa verde.

In my kitchen, I opt for a simpler version made with beef and chicken. I also cook carrots, onion, celery, and potatoes in the broth to serve with the meats. This makes a wonderful one-dish meal with plenty of leftovers for lunches.

The salsa verde may be prepared several days in advance and refrigerated in a tightly closed container. Thanks to Michele Scicolone in her cookbook 1,000 Italian Recipes for the tip on adding fresh bread crumbs to bind the salsa verde.

Bollito Misto Semplice

Makes about 8 servings

10 cups filtered water

6 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth

1 cup drained canned plum tomatoes

4 bay leaves

2 cloves garlic, peeled

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

2 1/2 to 3 pounds beef top round or chuck

1 broiler-fryer chicken (3 1/2 to 4 pounds), quartered

4 carrots, cut into 3-inch lengths

4 ribs celery, cut into 3-inch lengths

1 1/2 pound red potatoes, quartered if large

1 large onion, cut into wedges

Salt and pepper

Minced parsley (optional)

Salsa verde (recipe follows)

Mostarda di frutta

In a 10 to 12-quart pot, bring the water, broth, tomatoes, bay leaves, thyme and garlic to a boil. Add the beef. Reduce the heat so the mixture simmers. Cover partially and simmer for 2 hours.

Add the carrots, celery, and onion to the pot. Cover partially and simmer for 1 hour. Add the chicken and press to submerge until the broth. Simmer, partially covered, for about 1 1/2 hours or until the chicken is very tender. Season to taste with salt and pepper. If desired, serve a bowl of the broth for a first course. Remove and discard the bay leaves.

Remove the beef and chicken to a cutting board that has a well to catch the broth. Break into small pieces. The meat will be very tender. Transfer to plates. Surround with vegetables. Garnish with parsley if desired. Ladle on just a bit of the broth to moisten. Serve with salsa verde or mostarda di frutta on the side.

Salsa Verde

Makes 1 cup

2 cups packed parsley leaves

1/2 cup packed soft Italian bread crumbs without crust

1/4 cup drained capers in brine or soaked and rinsed salted capers

1 salted or canned-in-olive oil anchovy, filleted (note)

2 small cloves garlic

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon wine vinegar

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Salt

In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade, combine the parsley, bread crumbs, capers, anchovies, garlic, mustard and vinegar. Process until finely chopped. With the machine running, drizzle in the oil through the feed tube until smooth. Season with salt to taste. Refrigerate in a covered container.

Note

For salted anchovy, rinse well under cold running water. Place in a small dish and cover with milk. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 4 hours. Remove from the milk, rinse and pat dry before using.

For anchovy in oil, pat dry before using.