(Clockwise from top) Collard greens, broccoli rabe, and curly kale.
“Do you have a rabbit?”
I was so intent on punching in the number codes for my produce items in the self-checkout that, at first, I didn’t realize the woman was speaking to me.
“Do you have a rabbit?” she repeated. “Or a juicer?”
My puzzled expression encouraged her to elaborate. “All these greens, I thought maybe you have a rabbit,” she said gesturing to the bags of broccoli rabe, curly kale and collards on the counter. “You don’t eat them, do you?”
I squelched my urge to laugh and assured her that these greens were incredibly tasty. “I stir sauté them in olive oil and garlic,” I offered. “My family loves them.” (I didn’t go so far as to disclose that one of my proudest achievements as a parent is that both my daughters adore these hearty, healthful vegetables.) As I bagged my leafy booty and left the market, she still didn’t look convinced.
I thought of her that evening when we feasted on pungent broccoli rabe, borlotti beans braised with pancetta, and creamy polenta. We are some lucky bunnies!
This rustic dinner of greens, borlotti beans and polenta is typical of central and northeastern Italian country food in the winter. Borlotti rival the Tuscan favorite cannellini as my pick for best Italian bean. The borlotti have tan skin with black-magenta streaks. When cooked the skin turns a warm cocoa brown and the cooking broth and beans create a savory gravy. They’re so satisfying especially with some pancetta in the pot.
My local supermarket doesn’t stock borlotti beans so chances are yours won’t either. I used the superb organic borlotti from www.ranchogordo.com in Napa, CA. Some other online beans sellers are www.purcellmountainfarms.com and www.bobsredmill.com for cranberry beans, a good stand-in for borlotti.
Stir-Sautéed Greens
Makes 4 to 6 servings
Extra-virgin olive oil
1 large clove garlic, minced
1 pound broccoli rabe, kale, chard, or collard greens
Salt and freshly-ground ground black pepper
Wash the greens in plenty of cold water. Remove and discard tough stems. Chop the greens. There’s no need to dry them; the water on the leaves will create steam in the pan to help tenderize them.
Film a large sauté pan or large pot generously with olive oil. Scatter in the garlic and make sure it is filmed with oil. Set over low heat. Cook for about 3 minutes, watching and stirring frequently, or until garlic is softened. Do not brown.
Increase heat to high. Add half the greens to the pan; toss with tongs. Cover for about 1 minute or until the greens start to wilt. Add the remaining greens. Toss and cover for 1 minute. Uncover and cook, tossing, for about 2 minutes or until greens are wilted, brightly colored and glossy. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Vino sangiovese from the province of Romagna.
This recipe for borlotti is inspired by the beans I ate at Poggio Duca, a wonderful agriturismo on the border between Romagna province and the Marche. The large inviting dining room has a bank of windows overlooking the valley below the medieval mountaintop village of San Leo.
Braised Borlotti Beans with Pancetta
Makes 4 to 6 servings
Extra-virgin olive oil
2 ounces thick pancetta or good-quality slab bacon, finely chopped
1 onion, chopped
1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary
1 cup canned crushed tomatoes or tomato puree
1 pound cooked borlotti beans with cooking liquid (see following cooking method)
Salt and black pepper
In a large heavy pot, combine about 1 tablespoon oil with the pancetta. Cook over medium-low heat for about 5 minutes, or until the pancetta fat is rendered and the meaty streaks start to brown. Add the onion. Cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes or until the onion is translucent. Add the rosemary and tomato. Bring to a simmer. Add the beans with their cooking liquid. Stir.
Partially cover the pot and cook at a gentle simmer for about 45 minutes until the beans thicken slightly and the flavors blend. Season to taste with salt and black pepper.
Basic Method for Cooking Dried Beans
Makes 6 to 7 cups
1 pound dried beans, sorted and washed
12 cups good-tasting water (approximately)
1 carrot, cut in 2-inch chunks
2 ribs celery heart, cut in 2-inch chunks
1 small onion, cut in half
1 bay leaf
Several parsley stems
Salt
In a large pot, soak the beans overnight in cold water to cover.
Drain the beans and return them to the pot. Cover with water about 2 inches above the beans. Add the carrot, celery, onion, bay leaf, and parsley. Cover and bring almost to a boil. Remove the cover and reduce the heat so the water liquid simmers. Skim any foam and discard.
Partially cover the pot. Adjust the heat so the water liquid simmers but does not boil. Cook for 1 hour. Test a bean for doneness. Add slightly more water if needed to keep beans covered. Stir gently. Cook for 1 to 2 more hours, adding more liquid as needed, or until beans are tender but hold their shape. Taste. Season to taste with salt.
Remove from the heat to cool. Remove and discard the carrot, celery, onion, bay leaf, and parsley stems. Place the beans in a covered container and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks before using in a recipe. The beans may also be frozen if you plan to use them in a recipe like soup where firm texture is not crucial.
Creamy Polenta
Makes 4 to 6 servings
1 cup cornmeal, preferably stone-ground
4 cups chicken broth, water, or milk
1/4 teaspoon salt
Grated Pecorino Romano cheese
Whisk the cornmeal, milk, and salt in a saucepan. Cook, whisking constantly, over medium-high heat, for about 5 minutes, or until thickened. Reduce the heat to low. Simmer, stirring occasionally, for about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat.