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Walter’s Birthday Ossobuco

Posted February 15, 2011 by Walter 4 Comments

Ossobucco bonus: Use a tiny spoon to capture the succulent marrow nestled inside the hole in the veal bone.

By Walter Sanders

All happy families are alike (in their tradition of birthday meals). All unhappy families are different in their own way (I guess they don’t have the birthday meal tradition).

At our house, the birthday recipient gets to choose his or her birthday meal. It’s a great deal. From first course to dessert, from soup to nuts, from music to candles, it’s the whole package. And the advantage at our home is that the meal is prepared by Sharon. So it is flawless, fun, and flavorful.

I was in a bit of a quandary on February 7th, my birthday. I wasn’t sure what I wanted. Sharon and I were out and about that day, and she suggested we go to Wegman’s, the superb, Rochester-based food retailer, to see what “spoke” to me.

I started with dessert…and chose the Wegman’s mini-marble cheesecake. That’s the birthday dessert I always want. Sharon makes the best I ever had, but as empty-nesters I didn’t want  a sweet that would be savored for days, and would last on our hips for months.

Next to the meat department: When we lived in Florence, I lusted after grilled Lombatina, the succulent veal chop served at Trattoria Benvenuto. I didn’t see any in the custom case. Not a surprise—it’s not a common cut in the U.S. Then, a brilliant entree concept…“Wait, how about veal shanks for ossobuco?”

Sharon looked at me, and admitted she had channeled that thought into my birthday-meal brain. “That’s exactly what I had in mind!” she said.

The rest was easy. We added lascinato kale and fixings for a risotto alla Milanese. I served a 2001 Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico. It was a perfect complement to the splendid meal.

The only thing better than ossobuco for your birthday? Savoring leftovers for lunch.

Ossobucco alla Milanese

(adapted from 1,000 Italian Recipes by Michele Sciccolone, Wiley)

Makes 4 servings

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

4 meaty slices veal shank (about 1 1/2-inches-thick)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 small onion, finely chopped

1 small carrot, finely chopped

1 rib celery, finely chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 cup dry white wine

1 cup chopped canned plum tomatoes with juice

1 cup chicken broth

2 anchovy fillets, minced

1 tablespoon minced fat-leaf parsley

2 teaspoons grated lemon zest

Preheat the oven to 300°F. Spread the flour on a piece of waxed paper. Dredge the veal in the flour, shaking off the excess. Season both sides lightly with salt and pepper.

In an ovenproof pot with a tight-fitting lid, melt the butter and oil over medium-high heat. Add the veal.

Cook for about 10 minutes, or until browned on the bottom. Turn and cook for about 5 minutes, or until browned on the bottom. Remove to a plate and set aside.

Add the onion, carrot, celery, and garlic to the pot. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Cook, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes, or until tender.

Add the wine and cook, scraping up any browned bits, for about 5 minutes, or until the wine no longer smells of alcohol. Add the tomatoes, broth, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Bring to a brisk simmer. Return the meat to the pan, pushing gently to submerge in the sauce. Cover the pot and place in the center of the oven.

Bake for 1 1/2 hours. Carefully remove the lid to check the consistency of the sauce. If it is too runny, continue baking, uncovered, for about 30 minutes longer, or until the sauce is thickened. If the sauce looks too thick, add 1/4 to 1/2 cup more broth, cover and bake about 30 minutes longer, or until the veal is fork tender.

Remove the pot from the oven. Place the anchovies in a small bowl. Ladle some of the sauce into the bowl and whisk to dissolve the anchovies. Pour into the pot and stir gently to incorporate.

In a small bowl, combine the parsley and zest. Plate the shanks with the risotto (recipe follows). Spoon on the sauce and sprinkle on the parsley mixture.

Risotto alla Milanese

(from Cooking Up an Italian Life)

Serves 4 to 6 as a side dish

2 1/4      cups chicken broth

1              tablespoon butter, divided

2              teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

1/2         small onion, finely chopped

3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons Arborio or other superfino rice

1/8         teaspoon saffron threads, crumbled

1/8         teaspoon salt

1/4         cup dry white wine

1/2         cup (2 ounces) grated Parmesan cheese

Heat the broth to a boil in a saucepan. Reduce the heat to low.

In a heavy saucepan, melt 1/2 tablespoon butter and oil over medium-low heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes, or until soft. Add the rice, saffron, and salt. Stir to color the rice evenly. Add the wine. Increase the heat to medium-high. Cook for about 4 minutes, or until the wine is absorbed.

Reduce the heat to medium-low. Add 1/2 cup of broth. Start timing the cooking.

Simmer the rice, stirring constantly, until the broth is absorbed. Continue adding broth, 1/2 cup at a time, and stirring frequently. After 18 minutes of cooking, start testing the rice. The rice should be tender but still hold its shape. When it is cooked, remove from the heat. (All of the broth mixture may not be needed.) Add the remaining 1/2 tablespoon butter. Stir. Add the cheese and stir.

What Italian dish will you have for your birthday?

Share your pick by leaving a comment.

Filed Under: Culture, Florence, Food, Language, Lifestyle, Lombardy cooking, Markets, Recipes, Wine Tagged With: lombatina, ossobuco milanese, risotto milanese, veal chops, veal shanks, Wegman's

Wine Therapy

Posted August 13, 2010 by Sharon Leave a Comment

Are you coming off a pressure cooker week at work?

Just imagine restoring yourself with The “Wave of Bacchus” Sangiovese wine scrub or another luxe viniferous therapy at Spa bellaUve in Torgiano, Italy.

Listen as NPR correspondent Sylvia Poggioli dips into old “Books of Secrets” as she tours this Umbrian spa operated by the Lungarotti winery.

Filed Under: Culture, Lifestyle, Travel, Wine Tagged With: Italian spas, italian travel, italian wine, Lungarotti Wines, NPR, Sangiovese grapes, Torgiano

Italian White Wines for Summer

Posted June 13, 2010 by Walter 2 Comments

Here’s a fresh look at some ancient grape types that are worthy of your summertime quaffing consideration.

The parameters for this collection are:

  • Italian whites
  • Widely available
  • Under $15.00 per bottle
  • No Pinot Grigio (not that there’s anything wrong with Pinot Grigio!)

Garganega

From the Veneto, long a mainstay (blended with Trebbiano) for Soave, this grape can bring a lush, pear, melon and apricot experience.

Ferdi, Bianco Veronese, 2006, IGT, Sartori, $14.99

Mass maker Sartori delivers value and juicy fruit with this winner. Sharon says “Wow, I even get some honey in here!”

Vermentino

Victor Hazan thinks the Vermentino arrived from Spain to Liguria…then migrated to Sardinia.  Others believe in the Spanish origin, but see it arriving in Sardinia via Corsica. It thrives in heat and dryness and is grown successfully in Sardinia, Liguria and coastal Tuscany. Aromatic fireworks…sometimes with deep piney herbs, other times more plump, rounded and melony.

Costamolino, Vermentino di Sardegna, 2008, DOC, Agriolas $14.99

This classic is tightly structured, firm, spirited and bright to the taste.

Prelius, Vermentino Maremma, 2008, IGT,Volpaia, $9.99

This is a wonderful example of the Tuscan coastal success with Vermentino. Nice grip, piney nose, breezy.

Catarratto

It’s the most planted white wine grape and the second-most planted grape (behind Sangiovese) in Italy. Long a blending wine, it can be a refreshing party or picnic pleaser, when handled by a caring producer.

La Piazza, Catarratto, 2007, IGT, Cantine Calatrasi, $10.99

Simple, just a hint of pear…like a soft wind blowing into Trapani.

Donnafugata 2007, IGT, Anthili, $14.99

This pleasurable blend of Catarratto and Ansonica (Inzolia) symbolizes the growth of the Sicilian wine industry. Crisp, delicate fruit hints of peach. You’ll get some attention with this one.

Falanghina

I’ve come to enjoy this grape over the years….and especially since our visit to Campania. It’s a beachside natural.

Falanghina Sannio, 2007, DOC, Fuedi Di San Gregorio, $16.99

I pushed the $15.00 envelope with this beauty…but it still represents great value. Bracing, in a sea breeze manner, with crisp fruit and a waft of pine.

Do you have a special Italian summer white? Leave a comment and tell us about it.

Filed Under: Culture, Wine Tagged With: Italian white wine, italian wine, summer wines

When Bad Wine Happens

Posted March 2, 2010 by Walter Leave a Comment

56CellarDefBy Walter Sanders

Sharon and I recently attended “An Evening in Tuscany” dinner hosted by our financial advisor’s firm.  The venue was a local country club, and the main attraction was Chris Cree, a certified Master of Wine and proprietor of the 56° Wine shop in Bernardsville, NJ.

Cree has created an admirable niche by focusing on small producers who hand-craft their wines. He and these producers share common philosophical interests: a commitment to sustainable agriculture, preserving terroir, and producing wines that rely not upon mass mechanization but a dedication to touching every aspect of the creation of better tasting wine.

The evening’s list whetted my appetite. The reception portion featured a 2008 Corzano e Paterno “Il Corzanello” Bianco, an inviting blend primarily of Trebbiano and Chardonnay.

The antipasto (beef carpaccio, arugula and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese) was accompanied by a 2008 La Parrina Bianco, a blend of Trebbiano, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Answering a question of ‘white wine with beef?’ Cree explained that the preparation method—shaved raw beef in a light dressing—dictated the pairing.

The primo of wild mushroom risotto and secondo of braised beef short rib, sided by greens and vegetables were complemented by a 2007 Imbottigliato Da Racine Chianti Classico and a 2006 Isole e Olena Cepparello IGT Super Tuscan, respectively.

The dessert of Moscato poached pears was accompanied by a 2001 Isole e Olena Vin Santo.

So what happened when one of the five meticulously selected pairings came up corked?

ChrisCree_welcome2No trauma, no embarrassment, but rather, Cree used the misfortune as a candid lesson about oxidization. He poured a glass from the single tainted bottle and passed it around the table so all could familiarize ourselves with the unfortunate aroma of corked wine.

That led to a discussion about what causes oxidization, anecdotes about having the courage to send back corked wine, an analysis of the range of what percentage of wines are problematic, and the industry solutions for dealing with the challenges of oxidization.

I raise a toast to Chris Cree, a true Master of Wine, who transformed the classic wine nightmare into a learning experience.

For more on 56° Wine and the challenges of and solutions to oxidization, check out the following links.
56° Wine
Wine Closures

Filed Under: Food, Lifestyle, Tuscan cooking, Wine Tagged With: Italian Wine; corked wine; Tuscan wines; Chris Cree; 56° Wine; 56 Degree Wine; wine oxidization

Sommelier, M.D.

Posted September 11, 2009 by Walter 5 Comments

An Inner Italian Moment

Poggio il Castellare Brunello di Montalcino 2003 may be just what the doctor orders.

Poggio il Castellare Brunello di Montalcino 2003 may be just what the doctor orders.

By Walter Sanders

Recently, I had a routine medical procedure that necessitated anesthesia.

The anesthesiologist had gone through the drill thousands of times. He used well-practiced patter to recite a comical sedation flavor menu…to put me at ease, I’m sure.

“Today we have orange, vanilla, peach, watermelon, bubblegum, strawberry, and lemon. Which do you prefer?”

I paused.

“What I’d really prefer is Brunello di Montalcino. Is that available?”

That stopped him cold. Real cold.

Seconds passed. Yikes. Had I broken his rhythm? Had I crossed the sacred line between anesthesiologist and patient? Was I stealing his attempt at humor?

Finally, with a touch of wonderment in his voice, he said “That’s my favorite red wine.”

“Yeah, one of mine, too,” I said.

“Where did you learn about it?” I asked.

“Three years ago in Tuscany my wife and I took a side trip from Florence to Montalcino and I had my first glass with dinner there. I love that wine.”

We talked a little more about Italian vino. I felt much more at ease being in the capable hands of a mellow Brunello fellow.

Then he put me under. The procedure was a success.

Filed Under: Culture, Lifestyle, Wine Tagged With: Brunello di Montalcino, italian wine, Montalcino, Poggio il Castellare, sommelier, Tuscany

WINO in NOLA

Posted August 24, 2009 by Walter Leave a Comment

WINO2

I had not been back to the Big Easy since April in the year of Katrina, and it was time for another visit. Our time share condo at the lovely Hotel De L’ Eau Vive survived and Tchoupitoulas (Chop-a-too-lus) Street proved to be as funky and seductive as ever. If you head past the legendary Mother’s on Poydras and walk toward the Warehouse District, you’ll spot some of the pre-storm pioneers still doing brisk business: Emeril’s, Lucy’s Retired Surfer Bar, and an Aussie saloon.

Things can get lubricated on Tchoupitoulas yet it was a pleasant surprise to spot a brazen WINO on the street. The Wine Institute New Orleans (W.I.N.O.) opened in 2007 and has been doing its best to enlighten wine drinkers with a tasting room, a retail store and an impressive line-up of seminars and fun programs at their school.

I stopped by to check out the Italian wine selection. The Italian wine map above the racks was impressive but more comprehensive than the modest collection of Piedmont reds, a couple of super-Tuscans and a smattering of some predictable regional mainstays.

Amanda Toups, the manager and a co-buyer for the store, was enthroned behind the counter at the cash register and she explained some of the wine trends she’s been observing.

“It seems that New Orleans is still a French-drinking town, but people are willing to experiment a little more. We sell a lot of French wine, but Californian product is sure catching up. Maybe it’s because we have an identifiable cuisine in New Orleans, and perhaps people here need a little more of a push to open up their thinking about other wines.”

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Food, Wine Tagged With: Angelo Brocato, Emeril, Hotel de L'eau Vive, John Besh, Mosca's, New Orleans, Tony Angelo, Wine, WINO

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