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From Italy to Your Table

Posted February 26, 2015 by Sharon 7 Comments

La cucina l’italiana is rooted in the land.

My food-loving friends in Italy may live in towns or cities, but they all ‘know someone’ in the country. Someone like il cugino who cultivates olives and shares the olio with family. Someone like lo zio who preserves his sweet garden tomatoes and always has too many. Someone like l’amica who prepares divine apricot marmellata and loves to spread the sweetness.

Santisi medium logoPhil Noto knows someone: his cugino, Giuseppe “Pippo” Calantoni. Pippo lives in Motta d’Affermo, Sicily, in the province of Messina, in the house where Phil’s father was born in 1924. Pippo raises olives. He shares the olio with Phil and Phil is sharing the olio with us. Phil is a partner in Santisi Imports, a wholesale and retail Italian specialty food purveyor based in an office complex in Easton, Pa., about 100 miles west of NYC.

Like any self-respecting buongustaio, Phil not only knows where the olives are grown and the oil is pressed; he also knows the varieties of olives– Sant’Agatese, biancolilla, and nocellara Messinese.

Santisi oil is produced in Motta d'Affermo on the northern coast of Sicily about 24 miles east of  Cefalù.

Santisi oil is produced in Motta d’Affermo on the northern coast of Sicily about 24 miles east of Cefalù.

This level of authenticity extends to all the products offered by Santisi. Phil began the business in his garage in 2005 with olio and origano but now has dozens of products that boast as genuine a pedigree as the oil. Phil and partners Vince Sciascia and Mario Vicidomini scour the Italian peninsula to secure the best of the best: aceto balsamico, dreamy pistachio spread, saba, canned cherry tomatoes that melt in the skillet, assorted condimenti, and colatura d’alici (the ‘secret’ seasoning of so many Italian dishes).

As for dried pasta, partner Mario happens to be co-owner of one of the oldest, most-respected pasta makers in Italy. Mario and his brother Luigi are the fifth generation of Pastificio Vicidomini to carry on the family tradition (Luigi’s son is the sixth generation). Situated in Castel San Giorgio, Campania, the pastificio has been featured on Italian television‘s Linea Verde and is the darling of chefs and food critics.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Campania, Culture, Food, Lifestyle, Markets, Mediterranean diet, Sicily Tagged With: artisinal Italian ingredients, imported Italian foods, italian markets, Italian retail food stores, Pastificio Vicidomini, Santisi Imports, sources for Italian ingredients, wholesale Italian foods

Gelato in Florence

Posted May 20, 2014 by Sharon Leave a Comment

Gelato maestro Toni Cafarelli churns out sweet memories at Il Re Gelato.

Gelato maestro Toni Cafarelli churns out sweet memories at Il Re Gelato.

On my recent three-day stay in Florence, I sampled a pair of artisinal gelaterie that I’ve been hearing about. Years ago when I lived in Florence in the Santa Croce quarter, there was only one choice. Vivoli was our spot—superb gelato five minutes away from our apartment. It remains a fine gelateria but these days the number of gelato shops in Florence is expanding faster than a kid’s wish list in December.

Il Re Gelato

Sicilian Toni Cafarelli is the gelato king as far as I’m concerned. He appears on Italian TV and gained major press for his olive oil gelato. The pistacchio and cioccolato fondente we sampled were intensely flavored and caressed our tongues. The fiordilatte (flower of the milk), flecked with candied orange peel, was like eating specks of sunshine.

Located on the busy ring road Viale Strozzi near the Fortezza da Basso and the train station, the shop was filled with locals. In fact, we were the only foreigners. A selection of Sicilian pastries is also on offer. You can try a freshly baked brioche stuffed with gelato in the southern style.
Viale Strozzi 8/r
www.ilregelato.it

Carapina

Like buried treasure, the gelato at Carapina is kept under cover.

Like buried treasure, the gelato at Carapina is kept under cover.

Another ultra artisanal shop, Carapina breaks with the tradition of displaying mountains of gelato on trays set in glass cases (visual stimulation=increased sales). Instead, the gelato is kept in stainless steel tubs covered with stainless steel lids to keep out air and light, and thus maintain freshness. 

The flavors we tried–cioccolato fondente, crema, and caffè–were all smooth and lovely. We visited the Via Lambertesca location tucked between Piazza della Signoria and the Arno River. The main shop is on Campo di Marte and there’s also a Rome location.

Via Lambertesca 18r
Campo di Marte, Piazza Guglielmo Oberan 2r
Camp de’ Fiori, Via de Chiavari 37/37a (Rome)
www.carapina.it

For more tempting gelato spots in Florence, check out Toni Lydecker’s article in the Tampa Bay Times and Elizabeth Minchilli’s blog post.

What do you say is the best gelateria in Florence?

Filed Under: Culture, Florence, Food, Lifestyle, Rome, Sicily, Travel, Tuscany Tagged With: gelato, gelato in Florence, gelato in Italy, Italian ice cream

Italy’s Embarrassment of Riches

Posted March 26, 2014 by Sharon 1 Comment

Martina Franca

Piazza Plebiscito in the Baroque centro storico of Martina Franca. The town hosts a summer opera Festival della Valle d’Itria.

A lifetime isn’t enough time to really know Italy. I feel I know a bit about Italy but in reality, I have so much more to know.

I’m fortunate to have traveled through 15 of the country’s 20 regions. The five I have yet to visit are: Aosta, Trentino Alto-Adige, Friuli Venezia-Giulia, Sardinia, and Calabria.

When I’m not in Italy, I’m thinking about Italy, a constant student learning about the magnificent cities, towns, history, art, cuisine, wine, and culture. I dream and scheme about places to experience and things to do the “next time.”

So how can it be that of the “10 Places to Downshift to Italy” post on Swide, I have only been to one?

That one selection—Martina Franca, Puglia—resonates enough to make me trust Elisa della Barba’s other nine choices. When Walter and I visited Martina Franca one breezy March evening a few years ago, we felt at home. “I could live here,” we exclaimed in unison.

So peruse these 10 enticing places—from a fishing town on an island in a lake in Lombardia to a hillside of dazzling whitewashed houses in Basilicata. Someday you may know them and make them your own.

Filed Under: Abruzzo, Basilicata, Culture, Le Marche, Lifestyle, Puglia, Sicily, Travel Tagged With: beautiful Italian towns, expatriate guide to Italy, live in Italy, places to live in Italy

Southern Italian Desserts

Posted October 8, 2013 by Sharon 5 Comments

Crostata al Gelo di Mellone (watermelon pudding tart) from Sicily graces the book's cover.

Crostata al Gelo di Mellone (watermelon pudding tart) from Sicily graces the cover.

I don’t know why Rosetta Costantino’s family emigrated from the small southern Italian hill town of Verbicaro to the San Francisco Bay Area when she was 14. But I am grateful they did.

Had Costantino remained in her native Calabria, I doubt I would be salivating over her new book Southern Italian Desserts. Written with Jennie Schacht, it is a meticulously researched cultural accounting. The book includes 76 recipes for traditional sweets from the regions of Calabria, Campania, Basilicata, Puglia, and Sicily. Some of the pastries, such as Cannoli, are familiar to English-speaking bakers but many, such as Biscotti di Ceglie (almond cookies filled with cherry preserves), are revelations.

With photography by Sara Remington and Ten Speed Press’s signature high-quality production values, the volume is as visually appealing as its recipes are alluring.(Ten Speed also published Costantino’s first book My Calabria.)

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Basilicata, Books, Calabria, Campania, Culture, Food, Miscellany, Puglia, Recipes, Sicily Tagged With: Italian baking, italian desserts, Italian pastires

At Least You’re in Tuscany

Posted May 8, 2013 by Sharon 6 Comments

Author Jennifer Criswell and her beloved Weirmariner Cinder.

Author Jennifer Criswell and Cinder.

By Sharon Sanders

Jennifer Criswell had guts.  She wasn’t rich. She wasn’t fluent in Italian. And, she was no longer of the age where people say things like, “Oh, she’s young. . . she’s just finding herself.”

Yet, she moved from New York City to live in Tuscany. As a local barrista quizzically asked when she told him she was living in Montepulciano: “Ma, per sempre?” (but, forever?)

Her companion was a beloved Weimaraner named Cinder who, as you might suppose, was also neither rich, fluent in Italian, nor a frisky pup. 

ALYIT.250In At Least You’re in Tuscany: A Somewhat Disastrous Quest for the Sweet Life, Criswell shares the transformation with candor and humor. By her own admission, “It certainly wasn’t the sensible thing to do.”

Ten years before relocating, Criswell experienced an epiphany in Pienza, the last stay on her first trip to Italy, a three-week jaunt through the peninsula. Confiding in her journal, she realized that she no longer wanted to be a lawyer. She wanted to be a writer, and, more importantly, she wanted to be a writer in Italy.

Although her resolve was firm, the move was not fast. She writes, “My dream of Tuscany inspired me to start making changes. It took nine years, a move from Miami to New York—where I survived (just) as a dog walker on the Upper West Side—loads of Italian lessons, and three more trips before I hoisted sail on my Italian odyssey. But when you’re meant to be somewhere, everything in between feels like you’re treading water, just waiting for that wave to lift you and carry you onto the shore of your new land. My new land was Italy.”

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Books, Culture, Language, Sicily, Travel, Tuscany Tagged With: expatriates in Italy, Jennifer Criswell, Montepulicano, moving to Italy

A Tavola

Posted February 27, 2013 by Sharon 4 Comments

Yesterday I listened to an NPR report about the state of the family meal in America.

This was the scene of one family that was interviewed. At 6:02 p.m., three children sat down to supper. The mother and father did not eat with the children (they planned to eat later). The father wasn’t at the table. He was checking his phone. Grandpa was nearby looking at his iPad. The TV was blaring in the background. The meal lasted for eight minutes.

Cena_2

In Florence, as everywhere in Italy, dining is a celebration of life.

A few years ago on a research trip to Rome, I connected with Giuliana, the former neighbor of an American friend who had lived in Rome for a while. We agreed to meet one spring evening at the Spanish Steps.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Culture, Florence, Food, Mediterranean diet, Sicily Tagged With: Benjamin H. Senauer, importance of mealtime, Italian dining, italian meals, Lynn Rosetto Kasper, The Splendid Table

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