Simple Italy

Celebrating Your Inner Italian

Italian Rice Salad

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I always associate Rice Salad with summer in Rome. Even when it’s sweltering and your appetite is wilted, this refreshing dish will revive it.

Please look at this recipe as only a guideline. Rice salad is the type of preparation, like pasta, that is totally open to improvisation.  Vary it throughout the season with whatever vegetables are ripe. For instance, use chopped tomatoes instead of roasted bell pepper. And, if you have leftover cooked rice on hand, the dish takes only minutes to create.

You can serve it as is for a main-dish for a luncheon. Or, toss in 1 to 2 cups of drained tuna fish, cooked shrimp, or sliced cooked Italian sausage, for a more substantial salad.

As a side with dinner, serve with grilled meats, poultry, seafood, or vegetables.

Summer Rice Salad

Serves 8 to 10

2          cups medium or long-grain rice

2          cans (14 1/2 ounces each) reduced-sodium chicken or vegetable broth

1 1/2    teaspoons salt

1          medium-large sweet or red onion, chopped

5          tablespoons red or white wine vinegar

1/3       cup extra-virgin olive oil

3          ribs of celery hearts, chopped

1 1/2    cups chopped sweet pea pods or frozen baby peas, rinsed

1/2       cup shredded Provolone, Swiss Gruyère, Parmesan, Tuscan Pecorino, or Spanish         Manchego cheese

1          roasted red or yellow bell pepper, chopped

3          tablespoons drained capers or slivered green or black olives

Ground black pepper

In a large pot, combine the rice, broth, 1/2 cup water, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat so medium-low so rice simmers. Cook for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside, covered, for 5 minutes.

Coat a large tray with no-stick spray. With a fork spread the rice on a large tray. Stir occasionally to speed cooling.

In a small bowl, combine the onion, 2 tablespoons vinegar, and enough cold water to cover. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate.

In a large bowl, whisk 1/3 cup oil, 3 tablespoons vinegar, and 1 teaspoon salt. Add the celery, peas, cheese, pepper, capers or olives, and rice. Toss to mix. Cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour to chill.

To serve, drain and rinse the onions. Add to the salad. Season to taste with black pepper. Toss the salad. Drizzle with a bit more olive oil and vinegar if needed.

Serve right away or cover and refrigerate for several hours. Allow to sit at room temperature for 15 minutes before serving.

Torta di Fragole

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Torta di fragole, strawberry tart with rum pastry cream, is a celebration of spring in Italy.

When fragoline, the tiny woods strawberries, appear in markets and trattorie in late spring, it is truly cause for celebration. During their brief reign, there is no other dessert worth contemplating. Eaten simply out of hand or in a cookie crusted cream tart, now is the time to revel in this sweet seasonal gift.

Torta di Fragole (Strawberry Tart)

Makes 10 servings

Sweet Pastry Dough (recipe follows)

1/3       cup sugar

2          tablespoons all-purpose flour

1            egg plus 2 egg yolks

1          cup half-and-half or whole milk

2          tablespoons dark rum, divided

1          tablespoon butter

1          quart (1 1/2 pounds) medium or small strawberries, halved if desired

1/2       cup all-fruit apricot preserves

Coat a 12-inch round baking or pizza pan with no-stick spray. Prepare the dough. Pat into the bottom and 1 3/4 inches up the side of the pan. Prick all over with a fork. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Bake for about 30 minutes, pricking any big air bubbles with a fork, or until the entire surface is lightly browned. Remove to a rack. Store, covered with waxed paper, in a dry place for up to 24 hours.

Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, whisk the sugar and flour. In a measuring cup, beat the egg, egg yolks, and half-and-half or milk. Add to the pan; whisk until smooth.

Cook, whisking constantly, over medium heat for 4 to 5 minutes, or until the mixture starts to bubble. Cook, whisking vigorously to prevent lumping, for 1 minute. Remove from the heat. Continue whisking until mixture cools slightly. Whisk in 1 tablespoon rum and the butter. Pour into a bowl. Set aside to cool slightly. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or as long as 1 day.

Place the preserves in a glass measuring cup. Cover and microwave for 60 to 70 seconds, or until bubbling. Press through a fine sieve. Discard the solids. Stir in the remaining 1 tablespoon rum.

Up to 2 hours before serving, spread the pastry cream evenly over the crust. Top with strawberries decorative pattern. Brush the top evenly with the apricot glaze. Refrigerate, uncovered, for up to 2 hours.

Sweet Pastry Dough

1 1/4    cups all-purpose flour

1/4       cup cornstarch

1/3       cup sugar

2          teaspoons grated lemon zest

Pinch of salt

1 1/4    sticks (10 tablespoons) cold unsalted butter, cut in small pieces

2          egg yolks, beaten with 1 tablespoon water

To prepare by hand: In a mixing bowl, combine the flour, cornstarch, sugar, lemon zest, and salt with a fork, pastry blender, or hands. Add the butter. Cut or break it up into fine bits, mixing well with the dry ingredients. Make a well in the center. Add the egg yolk mixture. Toss to mix. The mixture will look crumbly. Turn the mixture out onto a work surface. With hands and a dough scraper, work the mixture into a smooth disk.

To prepare in a food processor: In the bowl of a food processor, combine the flour, cornstarch, sugar, lemon zest, and salt. Process to mix. Add the butter. Pulse 12 to 15 times to incorporate. With the machine running, drizzle in the egg yolk mixture. Turn off the machine. Pulse 6 times. The mixture will look crumbly. Turn the mixture out onto a work surface. With hands and a dough scraper, work the mixture into a smooth disk. Refrigerate for 30 minutes, if desired, so dough is easier to handle.

Cacciucco

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cacciucco

Every coastal region of Italy has a seafood stew. Tuscany— or more specifically the port town of Livorno—has cacciucco (ka-CHOO-ko). While the word is fun to pronounce, the dish is even more pleasurable to eat.

I yearn for cacciucco in the spring. It was in primavera that I first tasted cacciucco at Trattoria Benvenuto in Florence and I haven’t been the same since.

Some say the dish must have at least five types of seafood to correspond to the five Cs in the word. The more fish and shellfish, the better the flavor. And select good quality red wine and artisanal quality bread with good texture to soak up the amazing broth.

Choose the freshest fish available. Use one type or as many as three or four, to comprise 2 pounds. Sea bass, monkfish, cod, halibut, swordfish, shark, tilapia, turbot, catfish, or red snapper are all good choices.

As for the shellfish, in this recipe, I’m using littleneck clams and shrimp but baby calamari, octopus, mussels, or scallops may be substituted.

Cacciucco

Serves 6 to 8

3/4       cup olive oil
1          large red onion, coarsely chopped
4          large cloves garlic, minced
1 1/2    teaspoons dried crushed red-pepper flakes
1           cup dry red wine
1        can (28 ounces) crushed plum tomatoes
1/2       cup minced fresh flat-leaf parsley, divided
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
24       littleneck clams
24                medium or large unpeeled shrimp
2 to 2 1/2         pounds mild white-fleshed fish fillets, cut in 2-inch chunks
3          cups cold water
6 to 8 thick slices Rustic Bread, toasted

Heat the oil in a 6-quart Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, and pepper flakes. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes or until soft. Add the wine. Increase the heat to medium-high. Cook at a brisk simmer for 5 minutes or until the wine no longer smells of alcohol. Add the tomatoes, all but 2 tablespoons of the parsley, and salt. Bring to a boil then reduce the heat until sauce simmers gently. Cover and cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, for the flavors to blend.

Add the clams and shrimp; stir. Add the fish and stir gently. Increase the heat to high. Cook for 2 minutes or until liquid starts to bubble. Add the water. Cover and reduce the heat so the mixture simmers but does not boil. Cook for 10 minutes or until the clams open and the other seafood is opaque in the center. Discard any clams that will not open. Spoon over bread set in pasta plates or large shallow bowls. Sprinkle with the remaining parsley.

What Italian seafood stews have you savored and where? Tell us!

Ragú

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raguRagú is the Italian term for long-simmered, mellow meat sauce that dresses pasta or polenta. It varies from region to region, sometimes prepared with large chunks of meat, sometimes with ground, or more properly, finely minced meat.

I’ve sampled ragú of duck, rabbit, mixed meats, and sausages and have never encountered one that failed to satisfy my appetite. Arguably the most renowned of Italian meat sauces is ragú alla bolognese from the storied food city of Bologna. It is classically prepared with a combination of chopped beef, veal, or pork, and, in the good old days, was finished with heavy cream. Milk is now more often used.

Finely chopping onion, celery, and carrot into a mxiture called a battuto is the first step in making a ragu.

Finely chopping onion, celery, and carrot into a mxiture called a battuto is the first step in making a ragu.

Ragú alla bolognese is not as tomatoey as the meat sauces of the south that influenced Italian American sauces. The tomato acidity in a bolognese is balanced by the sweetness of the sautéed aromatic vegetables—the soffrito, or flavor base.

The soffrito should be lightly caramelized but not browned. This sauteed vegetable mixture is the flavor base of ragu.

A properly cooked soffrito is one of the secrets to a divine ragu.

It’s essential to cook the soffrito slowly to lightly caramelize the vegetables without browning them. I like to remove the soffrito from the pot so the meats can brown without the steam created by the veggies.

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Bollito Misto

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bollitoIn northern Italy’s sub-Alpine areas, particularly Piedmont and Lombardy, Bollito Misto (mixed boil) is the culinary cure for chilly damp winters. Not so much an exact recipe as it is a ritual, the dish can include beef, veal, cotechino sausage, chicken or capon and aromatic vegetables. Tougher cuts of meat are simmered slowly in water—not actually boiled at all—for hours until they are fork tender and the resulting broth is liquid heaven. I actually crave hot broth in the cold months. I believe my body is saying, “I need to be hydrated. I need some savory steam to open my dry air passages.”

In Italy, bollito misto is typically prepared for a crowd because it takes so many different ingredients to achieve the desired flavor complexity. The broth is often ladled into bowls as a first course, sometimes embellished with tortellini and Parmesan cheese. The meats are then served separately as a secondo, or second plate, garnished with mostarda di frutta, salsa rosa, or salsa verde.

In my kitchen, I opt for a simpler version made with beef and chicken. I also cook carrots, onion, celery, and potatoes in the broth to serve with the meats. This makes a wonderful one-dish meal with plenty of leftovers for lunches.

The salsa verde may be prepared several days in advance and refrigerated in a tightly closed container. Thanks to Michele Scicolone in her cookbook 1,000 Italian Recipes for the tip on adding fresh bread crumbs to bind the salsa verde.

Bollito Misto Semplice

Makes about 8 servings

10 cups filtered water

6 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth

1 cup drained canned plum tomatoes

4 bay leaves

2 cloves garlic, peeled

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

2 1/2 to 3 pounds beef top round or chuck

1 broiler-fryer chicken (3 1/2 to 4 pounds), quartered

4 carrots, cut into 3-inch lengths

4 ribs celery, cut into 3-inch lengths

1 1/2 pound red potatoes, quartered if large

1 large onion, cut into wedges

Salt and pepper

Minced parsley (optional)

Salsa verde (recipe follows)

Mostarda di frutta

In a 10 to 12-quart pot, bring the water, broth, tomatoes, bay leaves, thyme and garlic to a boil. Add the beef. Reduce the heat so the mixture simmers. Cover partially and simmer for 2 hours.

Add the carrots, celery, and onion to the pot. Cover partially and simmer for 1 hour. Add the chicken and press to submerge until the broth. Simmer, partially covered, for about 1 1/2 hours or until the chicken is very tender. Season to taste with salt and pepper. If desired, serve a bowl of the broth for a first course. Remove and discard the bay leaves.

Remove the beef and chicken to a cutting board that has a well to catch the broth. Break into small pieces. The meat will be very tender. Transfer to plates. Surround with vegetables. Garnish with parsley if desired. Ladle on just a bit of the broth to moisten. Serve with salsa verde or mostarda di frutta on the side.

Salsa Verde

Makes 1 cup

2 cups packed parsley leaves

1/2 cup packed soft Italian bread crumbs without crust

1/4 cup drained capers in brine or soaked and rinsed salted capers

1 salted or canned-in-olive oil anchovy, filleted (note)

2 small cloves garlic

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon wine vinegar

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Salt

In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade, combine the parsley, bread crumbs, capers, anchovies, garlic, mustard and vinegar. Process until finely chopped. With the machine running, drizzle in the oil through the feed tube until smooth. Season with salt to taste. Refrigerate in a covered container.

Note

For salted anchovy, rinse well under cold running water. Place in a small dish and cover with milk. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 4 hours. Remove from the milk, rinse and pat dry before using.

For anchovy in oil, pat dry before using.

Cheese Ravioli with Sage Butter

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Cheese Ravioli with Sage Butter

Cheese Ravioli with Sage Butter

When Natalie, the niece of a yoga buddy of mine, invited me to make ravioli at her Foundations of Education Class at Lehigh Carbon Community College (LCCC), I thought she must be one very confused student. “How would preparing stuffed fresh pasta help to edify future teachers?” I asked myself.

“We want the students to experience learning and teaching through different modalities,” explained Mary Braccili, LCCC Assistant Professor of Teacher Education, when I called her to inquire about the proposed session. “The five senses — seeing, hearing, touching, smelling, and tasting — can all be used in the classroom to enhance learning. And because the unit’s sub-theme this semester is Italy, Mary added, Natalie thought of asking you to make an Italian dish with our students.

(Natalie, I retract my initial doubts — you go to the head of the class!)

Professor Mary Braccilli, "agent" Natalie, and Sharon at the LCCC ravioli session.

Professor Mary Braccilli, "agent" Natalie, and Sharon at the LCCC ravioli session.

And so it was, earlier this week, that my number one sous chef Walter and I had big big fun with a hands-on session in preparing Cheese Ravioli with Sage Butter at the LCCC Fowler Center kitchen.

Sharon gives an overview of stuffed fresh Italian pastas -- such as tortellini, cappelletti, and ravioli -- to LCCC education students.

Sharon gives an overview of stuffed fresh Italian pastas -- such as tortellini, cappelletti, and ravioli -- to LCCC education students.

The students rotated in groups of four in rolling the prepared egg-flour dough on a hand-cranked pasta machine into gossamer 4-inch wide strips. Then they dolloped on the filling mixture of ricotta, Parmigiano Reggiano, Gruyere, and parsley. Quickly they folded the dough strip over, tamped out the air between the dollops, and cut and sealed the ravioli with serrated wheels.

(Left to right) Michele and Eddie fill and cut ravioli while Sharon shows Eddie how to prepare the dough for rolling.

(Left to right) LCCC education students Michele and Eddie fill and cut ravioli while Sharon shows another student (also named Eddie) how to prepare the dough for rolling.

As I supervised, the young cooks experienced how the dough should look and feel — as smooth as modeling compound but not sticky. As the end of class neared, we boiled the ravioli just for a few minutes, then drained and tossed them in sizzling butter and fresh sage leaves. The nutty herbal aroma evoked an idyllic autumn day. At last, we tasted the tender morsels. A-plus to the ravioli makers at LCCC!

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