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Florence Awaits

Posted December 14, 2009 by Guest Author 7 Comments

Story and Photographs by Melinda Rizzo

The Palazzo Vecchio, the town hall of Florence.

The Palazzo Vecchio, the town hall of Florence.

Florentines are accustomed to waiting.

From Michelangelo to Botticelli, DaVinci to Galileo, Florentines have cultured their passions into pearls, like a single grain of sand nestled deep inside an oyster and emerging over time to become a gem of the sea.

This year was my 30th, or Pearl, wedding anniversary.

To celebrate this milestone, my husband and I opted to take a trip to Florence, the heart and breath of Italy’s Tuscany region.

In January, we made the decision to travel to Italy at the end of November. Planning and executing this trip—one in which we’d invited a cousin and were traveling with our 12-year-old son—took time and patience. Patience, you might say, of the Florentines.

I’ve never considered myself a patient person.

Cathedrals take time to build, often centuries, still Florentines seem content to wait knowing their labors are never in vain.

The Dome of Santa Maria del Fiore Cathedral, commonly know as The Duomo.

The Dome of Santa Maria del Fiore Cathedral, commonly know as The Duomo.

As Carl Jung, a 20th century Swiss psychiatrist would contend, any work with purpose regardless of its nature, ultimately provides satisfaction and even pleasure for the worker.

Prosciutto crudo (air dried and cured pork) from Parma and arguably the pride of its area, can take as long as two years from start to finish to be ready for consumption.

Two years for a ham and cheese sandwich, but what a sandwich it makes! Prosciutto for me, and my son, is porcine transcendence.

Does anyone ordering a prosciutto focaccia pressed and toasted, consider the amount of time it took to create the ham? A moment of mastication melts these buttery mouthfuls, and they are gone.

Florentines linger over osteria menus . . .  along alleyways . . . and outside the windows of leather shops.

performersStreet performers sing operatic arias. They pump life into an accordion’s complication.

They strum a guitar or play the love theme from Florentine Franco Zeffirelli’s 1968 film Romeo and Juliet in the Piazza Signoria, where I rented our apartment. They spend time and care honing their musicianship. For those who love music, they offer kinship without translation.

Street performers share their art in exchange for spare change dropped into a basket poised at their feet. Skilled musicians bear witness to patience and waiting.

Witnessing the patience of Florentines: to execute a 17-foot-tall statue of David in marble, paint the mythological birth of Venus over the ocean waves or slice tissue thin prosciutto from the seasoned hindquarters of a pig, taught me a thing or two about this most elusive of virtues.

Consider the amount of time it takes for someone to carve mounds of
Nutella, vanilla or tutti fruitti gelato, into tempting, irresistible towering creations
decorated with fruit slices, nuts or plump, glistening blackberries and shiny
currants.gelateria

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Culture, Florence, Language, Lifestyle, Travel Tagged With: David, Duomo, Firenze, Florence, Ghiberti, italian travel, Melinda Rizzo, Michelangelo, Piazza Signoria, Uffizi Gallery

The Inner Italian Q & A: Melissa Muldoon

Posted December 3, 2009 by Sharon 16 Comments

One in an occasional series of Q & A profiles of  “wannabe” Italians


MelissaMuldoon
Melissa Muldoon is a freelance graphic designer living in the San Francisco Bay Area. Through her firm, Melissa Design, she creates graphics  for Web and print.  Raised in the Midwest, she studied studio art and history at Knox College. At the University of Illinois at Champaign, she worked as a teaching assistant and earned a Masters degree in Art History. Deciding she’d rather be “doing” art rather than “talking” about art, she pursued a career as a graphic designer. She is married to Patrick Muldoon and has three boys and a beagle. Her passion for art opened the door to Italy for her. During college she participated in a study abroad program in Florence and discovered a country full of history, culture and tradition, yet overflowing with contemporary style and quirky idiosyncrasies. Her love for art brought her “home” to Italy for the first time.

Q: Living “Italian”. . . Is it a great way to live or the greatest way to live?

A: Ma dai! Non c’e’ un modo migliore! Come on! There is no better way to live!  

Q: Why?

A: Let me just start off by saying I am a classic type A personality. I am impatient, competitive and a list maker. I don’t know what I like better, adding things to my “to do” list or checking them off.  I’m usually up late finishing a project or starting the next. I zoom from one appointment to the next and despise sitting in traffic or wasting time at stoplights. Now, while a type A lifestyle is great for getting things accomplished and moving ahead in life,  it may not be the sanest way to live.

Fortunately for me, I found Italy and discovered how to “live Italian.” Italy is my alter ego. It balances out my yin and yang. When I am in Italy, time slows down and I relax. I let go and go with the flow. My senses are reawakened and my creative side is nurtured and flourishes. I savor meals and notice things like the multi-colored marzipan pastries elegantly displayed in the panetterie and bars, or the wheels of cheese stacked up like oversized building blocks in the corner markets. I feel the cobblestones, worn and rounded by time, under my feet. I hear the clang of the church bells and the ronzare of the Vespa bikes. I meet the most interesting people, Italian locals and fellow travelers, and develop long lasting friendships.

Settimo Dalla Ricca escorts us through the Grana Padana Cheese factory in Mantova.

Settimo Dalla Ricca escorts us through the Grana Padana cheese factory in Mantova.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Culture, Florence, Inner Italian Q & A, Language, Lifestyle, Travel Tagged With: Inner Italian, italian language, italian travel, Melissa Muldoon, www.melissadesign.com

Dream of Italy

Posted November 30, 2009 by Sharon 1 Comment

portallogoSubscribers to Kathy McCabe’s award-winning Italy travel newsletter Dream of Italy will see Sharon’s work in the November 2009 issue. She penned a profile of “Stile Mediterraneo Cooking and Wine School” owners Cinzia and Marika Rascazzo and also a feature “Sisters Share Their Private Puglia” with the siblings’ travel recommendations for their region on the heel of Italy.

If you don’t subscribe to Dream of Italy, there’s no better holiday gift for your Inner Italian. Check it out here.

Filed Under: Culture, Hotels, Language, Lifestyle, Mediterranean diet, Travel Tagged With: Cinzia Rascazzo, Dream of Italy, italian culture, italian travel, Marika Rascazzo, Puglia, Stile Mediterraneo

Wireless Firenze

Posted November 20, 2009 by Sharon 1 Comment

theflorentine-allThe Florentine, a bi-weekly English newspaper published in Firenze, reports that “Netizens can now Tweet from the steps of Santa Croce or upload photos to Facebook in Piazza Signoria just minutes after taking them. The Firenze Wi-Fi initiative, which began on November 11, provides free, one-hour Internet access in 12 city squares and parks.”

To read the entire story, click here.

Filed Under: Culture, Florence, Lifestyle, Travel Tagged With: Internet, italian culture, italian travel, The Florentine, wi-fi

The Inner Italian Q & A: Maureen Jenkins

Posted October 29, 2009 by Sharon 6 Comments

One in an occasional series of interviews — with wannabe Italians or expatriate Italians –who try to “live Italian” wherever they are.

Photograph by Peter West Carey

Photograph by Peter West Carey

Maureen Jenkins is a freelance travel and food writer and author of UrbanTravelGirl, a blog that encourages African-American women to “live globally through international travel.” She also writes TCW Travel Connection, a blog on all things journey-related for Today’s Chicago Woman magazine. She loves all things Italian, having spent nearly one year living and working in Florence. While Maureen lives in Chicago (for now, at least), she tries to “live la vita bella” by incorporating small aspects of her once-Italian life into her everyday routine.

Q: Living “Italian”…Is it a great way to live or the greatest way to live?

A: I think it’s definitely one of the greatest ways to live. But I think (and please forgive me for cheating on Italy for a moment) that living French and living Spanish and living Greek also are incredible. For me, it’s almost about “living Mediterranean,” that take-it-as-it-comes lifestyle that appreciates the fine things in life, whether it’s food, wine, sensuality, or the scent of the sea. If there is such a thing as a past life, I definitely spent it somewhere in this region of the world.

Q: Why?

A: It’s one of the greatest ways to live because no matter where you physically call home — or where you are — it enhances the everyday quality of your life. And that’s a gift we all can give to ourselves.

Q: When did you discover your Inner Italian? What is your Inner Italian named?

A: My “Inner Italian” is named Marina, a name bestowed upon me by my Italian friend Monica’s mother. Her mom hardly speaks a word of English, but explained to me that “Marina” is much prettier and softer than “Maureen,” and I couldn’t agree more! I can’t recall an exact moment of DISCOVERY when I met my Inner Italian, but I think she first surfaced during my first solo trip, which took me to a bed-and-breakfast in Napa Valley. I also met a gorgeous young Italian ragazzo in San Francisco’s Little Italy during that trip, one I kept in touch with and reconnected with in New York, Milan and Rome years after. Who wouldn’t want to keep discovering her “Inner Italian” after that?

Q: What does “living Italian” mean to you?

A: It means wholeheartedly embracing the simple goodness and sensuality in life. Taking the extra time, for example, to stop at a specialty market or gourmet grocery store for fine imported cheese or salumi rather than dashing into a regular supermarket makes a huge difference. Think how special it feels opening these hand-wrapped treasures as opposed to ripping open an industrial-strength package. It’s worth every extra dime you pay. It means purchasing the best quality you can afford, whether you’re talking shoes, pretty lingerie, or wine glasses. And even when it comes to things that DON’T cost money — valuing quality time spent with family and friends; enjoying the arts and culture just because and not only when out-of-town guests come to visit — this to me also embraces this wonderful way of living and being.

Q: What nurtures your Inner Italian?

A: Being IN Italy, of course! But since I’m usually in the United States instead, remembering what made my living and visiting Italy so pleasurable: good, unhurried meals with simple yet exquisite ingredients; good wine and conversation; and time spent dining with those I love spending time with. And since I can’t BE in Italy, I nurture my “Inner Italian” by reading travel books and cuisine/wine and travel magazines that celebrate this wonderful country. I also find it by seeking out authentic restaurants in Chicago and elsewhere in the United States where the waiters or owners actually speak Italian, giving me a chance not only to practice l’italiano on this side of the Atlantic but also allowing me to reconnect with the special times I’ve spent in bella Italia. It’s one of my small personal joys!

Q: What Italian movie, or movie set in Italy, do you most like? Why?

A: No question about it — “Under the Tuscan Sun” with Diane Lane. UTTSfilmGranted, the beautifully shot film had nearly NOTHING to do with Frances Mayes’ original book, but who cares? The story of a middle-aged woman who moved to Italy to renovate her life along with a Tuscan villa spoke to me in a way that no film ever had. In fact, it helped inspire me to quit my stressful corporate job, figure out how to make a living as a freelance writer, and move to Florence for nearly one year. The film is one I pull out periodically when I need inspiration for some other major life change — one of which I’m working on now!

Q: When and where was your first visit to Italy?

A: I first visited Italy in May of 2002 with two girlfriends, a trip we’d delayed after September 11. We first landed in Rome, had crazy issues with our luggage at the airport, and then had a mix-up at our original hotel. But thanks to the company I worked for, we ended up at a FAR better hotel, met women who have become great friends, and fell head-over-heels in love with Rome and all things Italian. What can I say? I was hooked.

Q: When and where was your most recent trip to Italy?

A: My most recent trip to Italy was in the fall of 2008, when my mom and I took a 12-day Mediterranean cruise. Among the places we visited were Livorno (the port town near Florence), Civitavecchia (the port of call near Rome), and Messina (on the gorgeous island of Sicily). Having lived in Italy, I’ve spent plenty of time in both Florence and Rome, but Sicily — especially the town of Taormina — was a super-special treat. Because of gale-force winds, we were forced to abandon the ship’s original port of call in Greece and headed to Sicily instead. I fell madly in love with this beautiful island and have vowed to return — hopefully for at least two weeks during the warm, sunny part of the year.

Q: If you could live in one place in Italy for the rest of your life, where would it be and why?

A: Hands down, it would be Rome. Not only is the antiquity simply stunning and amazing no matter how many times I see it, but parts of Rome are as modern, savvy and cosmopolitan as any other major metropolis in the world. It never ceases to fascinate me — the food is incredible and the people are beautiful. What more can one want?

Q: Last Italian meal…what would it be?

A: As much as I love all Italian food, I think mine would be fairly simple. I’d start with a good glass of Prosecco, savor some prosciutto di Parma, have a bit of super-fresh mozzarella di bufala along with some simply fried potatoes (a basic delicacy I discovered in Naples at a friend’s home during my first visit to the city). Of course, a glass of Brunello di Montalcino would have to figure in somewhere. And perhaps a digestivo of homemade Limoncello to finish me off. I’m a simple ragazza — and I’d leave this earth a happy girl!

Has Italy changed your life in a profound way? Send us a brief comment describing your Inner Italian and you may be selected as our next “Inner Italian Q&A.” If picked, you’ll receive a free autographed copy of Cooking Up an Italian Life.

Filed Under: Culture, Florence, Inner Italian Q & A, Lifestyle, Travel Tagged With: Inner Italian, italian lifestyle, italian travel, life in Italy

Mad Men Rome

Posted October 6, 2009 by Sharon 3 Comments

250px-MadmenlogoInner Italians who are fans of the award winning AMC TV program Mad Men received a gift-within-a-gift with Sunday night’s “Souvenir,” the eighth episode of the third season. (You can still catch it at various times on October 6 and 7. (Check the AMC schedule for days and times.)

We learn that gorgeous Betty Draper, frustrated early 1960s homemaker and wife of sizzling ad man Don Draper, has an Inner Italian that’s been stifled in the suburbs (just in case we don’t “get” that Betty’s really trapped, the Drapers reside in Ossining, NY, where Sing Sing Maximum Security Prison is located). Betty’s along for the ride on Don’s two-day visit to Rome (hmm, let’s see . . . fly across the Atlantic, have dinner, fly back across the Atlantic?) to check out client Conrad (call me Conny) Hilton’s property, the Rome Cavalieri.

250px-Piazza_della_repubblica_hdr

To many Americans in the early 1960s, Rome seemed the height of jet-set glamour -- la dolce vita -- the sweet life.

Betty no sooner says grazie to the bellman than she’s on the phone in fluent Italian (albeit, not with a fabulous accent — not sure here if creator Matthew Weiner wanted her to speak with an accent or if actress January Jones had bad coaching) making an appointment at the parrucchiere (hair stylist). Next we see her in an outdoor cafe straight out of Fellini’s La Dolce Vita, which was released in the U.S. in 1961, just a couple years before the Drapers fictional jaunt.

Betty is straight-up channeling the sultry ‘60s Italian actress Virna Lisi with a blonde updo, major eyeliner, and a very little black dress. Two Italian men at the next table take notice. Betty chooses to go with the man at the opposite table, who is her own husband Don, acting mysterious, just as he does when he’s away from her in Manhattan. (Check out the insightful blog commentary by Adam Wilson How Betty Draper Learned Italian (and Why I Don’t Care) at thefastertimes.com.

Rome has revitalized the troubled Draper marriage as we see when Don and Betty return to their room after dinner. The view from their window, with St. Peter’s dome in the distance, looks like the photograph on the “Deluxe Room” page at the Cavalieri Hilton Web site. (This show is known for its near fetishism in period detail, but seriously, this view looks like the art department just enlarged the photo.)

Back at home in her knotty pine kitchen, Betty — usually seen in demure shirtwaists — is wearing a vibrant Emilio Pucci (or maybe a knock off) silk jersey print dress, cutting edge fashion at the time. Pucci was a Florentine nobleman whose early ‘60s designs cut the thread with the staid ‘50s.

Although she looks fabulous in the Pucci, Betty’s boring old life is not a good fit. As she tells Don, “I hate this place. I hate our friends. I hate this town.” She’d rather be in Italy, certamente. But all she gets is a souvenir charm of the Colosseum from Don.

What would Italians make of this episode? I’m not sure and they won’t have a chance to find out until probably 2011. The second season of Mad Men premieres December 28, 2009 on Fox TV Italy. Click here for some amusing clips of the hard-drinking, hard-smoking, hard-loving, and occasionally hard-working Sterling Cooper Advertising Agency gang speaking in Italian.

Filed Under: Culture, Language, Lifestyle, Miscellany, Travel Tagged With: AMC TV, Betty Draper, italian culture, italian language, italian travel, Mad Men, Rome

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