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Palazzo Donati in Mercatello sul Metauro, Le Marche

Posted April 23, 2013 by Sharon 1 Comment

A version of this article first appeared in the October 2012 issue
 of the award-winning subscription travel newsletter Dream of Italy

By Walter Sanders

The giardino behind Palazzo Donati.

The giardino behind Palazzo Donati.

After we left Villa Pipistrelli, our small group journeyed to Le Marche, a region in east-central Italy nestled between Emilia-Romagna, Tuscany, and Umbria.

Our destination was the bustling village of Mercatello sul Metauro, located at the foot of the Tuscan-Umbrian Apennine mountains, only a couple of hours by car east of Siena.

The morning mists lifted to reveal soaring hills and sweeping views of verdant valleys. Downhill we passed towns that marked the progress of 15th Century artist Piero della Francesca who had literally painted his way to Urbino, the famed “Ideal City” of the Renaissance.

Mercatello sul Metauro is inviting. The gray paver-bricked main square is bisected by white paver stones that form lines converging from the far corners of the square straight to the center. “Follow the white stone roads,” to adapt the effect into Wizard of Oz parlance.

The square bustles. Much of the buzz is fueled by frothing cappuccino and steaming espresso provided by Franchino from his nearby bar, Caffe Rinaldi. Franchino knows everyone.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Culture, Food, Hotels, Italy restaurants, Language, Le Marche, Lifestyle

The Donati Family

Posted April 18, 2013 by Sharon 1 Comment

This article first appeared in the October 2012 issue
 of the award-winning subscription travel newsletter Dream of Italy

By Walter Sanders

Montestigliano is a compound of historic villas.

Montestigliano is a compound of historic villas and farm houses.

I felt at home in Villa Pipistrelli. That feeling of comfort was not an accident.

“It’s simple. We want our guests to feel like part of the family,” says Luisa Donati, marketing manager for the family’s Pipistrelli, Montestigliano, and Palazzo Donati Mercatello (in Le Marche) properties.

To feel like part of this family would be an honor. Signore Giancarlo Donati, the patriarch who’s in his 80s, is a talented business man with a big personality. Sixty some years ago, he learned to fly and bought a small plane. On one of his first flights he shocked the citizens of Mercatello by bombing the town with ripe peaches.

Virginia, the eldest child, is an architect, fearless singer, and animated dancer.

Massimo Donati discusses the olives that are raised to produce the family's signature olio d'olive.

Massimo Donati discusses the olives that are raised to produce the family’s signature extra vergine olio d’oliva.

Massimo is the farmer who manages the olive oil production, as well as the family’s efforts in sustainable energy from BioGas methane transfer. He’s also the leader in solar energy capture on the properties.

Damiano is the family accountant, a spirited singer, and master griller.

Marta provides administrative support for the business.

Together, the family has integrated its dream of sustainability, tourism, and a unique Tuscan experience into a business model that revolves around Agriturismo. (An Agriturismo is a government designation for an operating farm that rents lodging and provides food from its own production.)

The Big Cena at the Montestigliano Property

Once a week, guests from the Pipistrelli and Montestigliano properties are invited to a dinner hosted by the Donati family in the spacious top floor of the old granary. The food is prepared by Anna, the talented young Polish chef, who has been with the family for nearly ten years.

All the food is procured from local suppliers. The olives for the extra virgin oil are grown on the property. Luisa introduced me to a cheese maker named Fiametta whose four different pecorino cheeses were featured. Luisa told Fiametta that she would have the opportunity to address the 60 guests and speak briefly about her cheese, and that Luisa would translate. Fiametta looked very nervous about the prospect but we both encouraged her to try.

By the end of the evening, after Fiametta had taken several orders for cheese purchases, she said to Luisa, “That was great fun, I want to do it again sometime soon!” Ah, a celebrity is born.

Luisa and Massimo make everyone feel like family around their dining table.

Luisa and Massimo make everyone feel like family around their dining table.

I mixed with some of the guests who were staying at the Montestigliano property. Many of them told me that they had been visiting for decades with friends and relatives (some multi-generational) in tow.

The meal was excellent. All five Donati siblings  mingled with the guests. After dessert Damiano grabbed the karaoke microphone and kicked off an hour of singing and dancing.

To be continued:

Palazzo Donati Mercatello and nearby attractions

Filed Under: Culture, Food, Gardening, Language, Lifestyle, Mediterranean diet, Miscellany, Travel, Tuscan cooking, Tuscany Tagged With: Italy vacations, Tuscan vacations, villas in Tuscany

Making Fresh Pasta in Tuscany

Posted April 12, 2013 by Sharon

This article first appeared in the October 2012 issue
 of the award-winning subscription travel newsletter Dream of Italy

By Walter Sanders

Flour and egg transformed into gossamer sheets of fresh pasta.

Flour and egg transformed into gossamer sheets of fresh pasta.

While staying at Villa Pipistrelli just south of Siena, our group visited nearby Stigliano. We were on a mission: to learn how make fresh pasta from scratch. Our teachers were two older women from the village. They were beautiful, gracious and patient. Pasta-making rookies began combining ingredients, and our enthusiasm was evident despite beaten eggs leaking from collapsed flour walls.

With the help of our lovely mentors, everyone finished their dough and formed it into a ball. All the balls were kneaded together, then rolled flat, cut, stuffed, trimmed and transformed into ravioli.

The site was La Bottega di Stigliano, a combination retail shop—specializing in locally produced agricultural products—and a restaurant. The building was a former casa del popolo, a people’s house where in olden times farm workers would meet to sell products. The casa also served as a social center. It was, in a sense, a one-stop shop where people could fill their baskets with food and make social connections. [Read more…]

Filed Under: Culture, Food, Italy restaurants, Miscellany, Travel, Tuscan cooking, Tuscany Tagged With: casa del popolo, food shops in Italy, italian food, italian lifestyle, Italian ravioli, local produce, Montestigliano, pasta, Siena, slow food, Stigliano, Tuscany, Villa Pipistrelli

Is Cinta Senese the World’s Tastiest Pork?

Posted April 9, 2013 by Sharon 1 Comment

This article first appeared in the October 2012 issue
 of the award-winning subscription travel newsletter Dream of Italy

By Walter Sanders

Daniele Baruffaldi is a man’s man: bald, barrel-chested and strong. He’s as quick to laugh as he is to roar. Daniele is one of only 60 farmers certified to breed and raise the famed cinta Senese pigs. Cinta refers to the white “belt” marking around the shoulders of their otherwise black bodies. Senese means from Siena. This noble breed has deep roots. It is identifiable in Ambrogio Lorenzetti’s 1348 fresco “Effects of Good Government in the Country” still viewable in Siena’s Palazzo Communale.

Daniele Baruffaldi proudly shows off his heritage breed hogs.

Daniele Baruffaldi and his cinta Senese hogs.

The breed became nearly extinct over the last 40 years when Italian farmers imported the large white breed from the United Kingdom. These hogs grew to maturity quicker and produced leaner meat which was in marketing vogue at the time. The large white was crossbred with the cinta Senese to produce the grigio Senese. It made economic sense: faster growing meant less feed, quicker to market, leaner. “But it doesn’t have the flavor of cinta Senese,” declared Daniele.

Before long, the global population of pure-bred cinta Senese had been, according to Daniele, reduced to only two males and 20 females.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Culture, Food, Lifestyle, Miscellany, Travel, Tuscany Tagged With: agritourismo, Cinta Senese hogs, front porch farm, italian pork products, Italian salumi, prosciutto, traditional Italian food

Golf in Tuscany

Posted April 5, 2013 by Sharon 1 Comment

Robert Trent Jones Jr. designed the Bagnaia course in the gentle hills south of Siena.

This article first appeared in the October 2012 issue
of the award-winning subscription travel newsletter Dream of Italy

By Walter Sanders

What could be more fun for a 15-year old ragazzo than to play hooky and tee it up for 18 spectacular holes at the newest golf course in Italy? I provided the perfect excuse for Giacomo Donati Clarke, son of one of the owners of Villa Pipistrelli, to experience the Royal Golf Club Bagnaia.

Designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr. and opened in 2012, the course is a short 8-minute ride from Pipistrelli. It plays to a sporty 6,101 meters (6,672 yards) from the back tees and carries a course rating of 72.1 and a slope rating of 137 from the tips.

Despite the recent success of the Italian Molinari brothers on the PGA and European Tours, young Giacomo, a smooth-swinging lefty, said his favorite player is South African Ernie Els.

We had a blast. I had packed a couple of sleeves of Titleist ProV1 golf balls and shared them with Giacomo. He beamed! But his eyes got even wider when I asked him to pilot the golf cart all day. Italians can’t get a driver’s license until they’re 18, so he jumped at the opportunity to drive.

Giacomo and Luisa Donati.

Giacomo and Luisa Donati.

The course is challenging, the greens are fast. Water hazards feature prominently on five of the holes and it is easy to get distracted by the view of Siena in the hills.

Neither of us threatened the par of 71. I struggled to an 88, and new player Giacomo came in at 109. But I doubt that anyone else on the course that day enjoyed golf as much as we did.

At the end of the round, I gave Giacomo my orange, Titleist-branded golf cap. The last time I saw him, he was still wearing it.

To be continued in our next post: 

An Encounter with Prized Cinta Senese Pigs

Filed Under: Golf in Italy, Lifestyle, Travel, Tuscany Tagged With: active vacations in Italy, golf in Italy, golf in Tuscany, Robert Trent Jones Jr., Titleist

At Home in Villa Pipistrelli

Posted April 2, 2013 by Sharon 2 Comments

This article first appeared in the October 2012 issue
of the award-winning subscription travel newsletter Dream of Italy

Peaceful Pipistrelli.

The sound of silence is sweet at Villa Pipistrelli.

By Walter Sanders

I finish my meal of prosciutto, salami, pecorino, pane e olio. I grab a notebook and pour another glass of Chianti Classico to bring outdoors. It’s a sunny September afternoon and I choose a spot under a wisteria-covered pergola.

I have Villa Pipistrelli all to myself because I have arrived earlier than the other journalists in my group. Perfection. I become aware of the quiet. No man-made sounds. The silence heightens all my senses. Even the occasional dove calls her mate in sotto voce.

I began to write…focused by the silence.

A bee buzzes by. The sound is almost shocking, electric. I have to stop and write about that glorious interruption.

I linger and watch the valley change muted colors as the sun sets.

I marvel at the surroundings: such places exist only in movies, romantic novels, in dream states after a pleasing Italian dinner.

But Villa Pipistrelli—the country house where I am—does exist. In the days to come, I will learn how intense and liberating Tuscan country life can be.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Architecture, Culture, Hotels, Language, Lifestyle, Travel, Tuscany Tagged With: Italian villa rentals, Villa Pipistrelli, villas near Siena

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